Behind the Radio

• 1). Pull out the ashtray directly above the car's radio. Unscrew the two Torx screws holding the upper portion of the dash kit's screws in place. Pull off the dash trim around the Conquest's stereo. Remove the four Torx screws securing the radio with the Torx screwdriver. Pull the radio from the dash to access the head unit's wiring harness on the back.
  
  
• 2). Snip the white/blue and black/blue wires one inch from the back of the harness plug with the wire snips, corresponding to the left and right front speakers.
  
  
• 3). Strip 1/4 inch of outer insulation from the white/blue and black/blue wires, along with the corresponding wires on the line out converter indicating left/right polarity, using the wire stripper.
  
  
• 4). Slip a crimp connector on the ends of the line out converter's wiring. Crimp it in place with the crimp tool. Slide the radio's prepared wires into the other end of the connectors, securing them with the crimp tool.
  
  
• 5). Snip the wire on the radio's harness labeled "ACC," leaving enough for re-attachment later if desired. Strip 1/4 inch of this wire and the remote wire included with the amp kit. Crimp the two wires together. Lead the wire out of the dash into the cabin. Re-install the radio and associated trim.
  
  
• 6). Plug in the RCA cables included with the amplifier wiring kit into the RCA outputs on the line out converter. Route these and the remote lead as needed to the intended amplifier mounting location.
  
  

Under the Hood

• 1). Pop the hood with the hood release, located on the lower left hand underside dash. Remove the negative battery terminal with the ratchet and socket set. Remove the positive terminal next.
  
  
• 2). Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from one end of the power wire from the amplification kit. Slide the wire into the included battery terminal. Tighten the screw on the side of the terminal using the appropriate screwdriver. Slide the terminal over the positive post. Secure the terminal to the post with the correct screwdriver.
  
  
• 3). Snip the positive battery wire within 18 inches of the battery connection. Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from both ends of the stripped wire. Slide the bare wires into the connectors on the amp kit's fuse holder. Tighten the wires down with the right screwdriver.
  
  
• 4). Find an existing rubber boot that shrouds an existing wire harness from the engine compartment into the Conquest's cabin. A good option for this vehicle is the manual shift clutch boot, or the harness from the under-hood fuse box.
  
  
• 5). Route the power wire to the selected amplification installation spot. Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from this end of the wire. Screw the wire into the amp's "+12v" terminal with the correct screwdriver.
  
  
• 6). Find a section of metal near the amplifier's mounting location. Scrape away any paint down to shiny bare metal, using the tip of a standard screwdriver. Cut a piece of ground wire long enough to reach from the amp to the prepared grounding location.
  
  
• 7). Strip 1/2 inch of insulation from both ends of the ground lead. Crimp the ring terminal to one end of this wire. Screw the other end to the "GND" or "NEG" terminal on the amp.
  
  
• 8). Screw the ground wire to the prepared ground location on the sheet metal, using the self-tapping screw and star washer.
  
  

Wiring the Kicker Woofer

• 1). Cut the speaker wire to reach from the amplifier to the subwoofer's enclosure in the rear hatch. Strip 1/4 inch of insulation from each end of both wires.
  
  
• 2). Screw the side of the wire with the stripe or molded ridge into the "+" speaker terminal of the amp. Repeat for the negative wire into the opposite "-" terminal. If you are bridging the amp, you will be using the left positive and right negative terminals. Mono amps will simply use the left and right terminals.
  
  
• 3). Unscrew the binding post lugs on the side of the enclosure. Slide the other end of the speaker wires into the holes exposed by loosening the lugs. Slip the positive wire into the red post, and the negative into the black. Tighten the terminals back down.
  
  
• 4). Connect the wires leading from the terminal cup inside the enclosure to the matching red and black terminals on the back of the subwoofer. Push down the terminals on the woofer, insert the wires into their correct spots, then release.
  
  
• 5). Flip the speaker magnet-down into the enclosure's opening. Screw the woofer into the enclosure with the drill, Phillips bit attachment and wood screws.
  
  
• 6). Re-connect the negative battery terminal.