Should You Exfoliate Skin of Color?
You’ve probably read that regular exfoliation is good for the look and health of your skin. But those of us with darker skin tones could become very confused when it comes to exfoliation. Many dermatologists swear by regular, even daily exfoliation of the skin. But when done improperly, too frequently and when using the wrong method, exfoliation can lead to skin discolorations.
The good...
Exfoliation is effective when the skin does not properly shed dead skin cells, such as when the pores are blocked by accumulated product, makeup and debris, or when this natural process is hampered by the environment or starts to decrease with age.
Exfoliation, they say, also helps skin care products penetrate the skin.
The bad...
The concern with exfoliating skin of color (those with African, Asian, East Indian, Latin American, South Pacific, Native American and Middle Eastern roots, as well as those of mixed heritage) is pigmentation problems. Due to having more melanin (pigment), we are at higher risk for hyper-pigmentation. Our pigment-producing melanocytes, which produce more melanin any way, are easily over-stimulated to make even more melanin, which is a protection response to injury from the environment (like the sun) or physical stimuli (exfoliating scrubs). As stated before, the skin normally sheds dead skin cells, but this process can be slowed down and exfoliation is actually meant to cause this response in the skin so that the body will shed old skin cells and produce new cells for younger-looking skin.
The solution...
Regular exfoliation can be good for the skin, but it has to be gentle and not something that will cause excessive injury.
For safe exfoliation:
- Avoid using products that too harsh
- Do not rigorously exfoliate the skin (if using a scrub or peel, the product should be doing most of the work)
- Do not exfoliate too frequently, especially when using scrubs and physical exfoliators
- Avoid using the wrong type of exfoliation
Chemical exfoliation (such as alpha hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, retinol and lactic acids) is usually recommended for skin of color because it’s less irritating than rough or harsh scrubs and even mechanical facial exfoliating brushes. The improper or overuse of these scrubs and devices can cause irritation which can in turn be the cause of hyperpigmentation.
Read this article to find out if you are over-exfoliating your skin.
See Also:
Other Exfoliation Tips to Avoid Hyperpigmentation and Skin Discolorations
- Do a patch test for all products to check for skin sensitivity. When using a facial exfoliating product, do the test on an inconspicuous part of the face, such as the front of the ear (some suggest testing for a few days to see if there is a reaction.)
- Start by using the lowest strength of chemical peels and other exfoliating products until you know what is right and safe for your skin.
- When using exfoliating scrubs, creams or cleansers make sure the skin is wet (do not scrub dry skin).
- When using exfoliants on the face, gently rub in a circular motion, then rinse off. If using a wash cloth to remove the product, make sure it is not too rough.
- If any product causes discomfort or burning, wash it off immediately. If the burning sensation or discomfort continues for too long a period of time, consult your doctor or a dermatologist.
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