Scientific Name:Pelvicachromis pulcher
Other Names:Kribensis, Purple Cichlid
Family: Cichlidae
Origin: Africa
Adult Size: 3-4 inches (8-10 cm)
Social: Peaceful
Lifespan: 5 years
Tank Level: Bottom dweller
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon
Diet: Omnivore, eats most foods
Breeding: Egglayer
Care: Easy
pH: 6.5
Hardness: 8-12 dGH
Temperature: 75-77 F (24-25 C)

Description

As is often the case with common names, debate exists over which species 'kribensis' truly is.

Technically kribensis refers to the species Pelvicachromis taeniatus. However, in the aquarium trade Pelvicachromis pulcher is the fish usually sold under the name kribensis. Ideally the fish should be referred to by its scientific name, thus eliminating the issue of the common name. For the sake of clarity, this profile will refer to Pelvicachromis pulcher or P. pulcher, rather than Kribensis.

P. pulcher is an easy to care for and colorful fish that falls into the category of dwarf cichlids. One look it all it takes to understand how it got it's name. The Latin translation of "Pelva" meaning 'belly,' "chromis" meaning 'color,' and "pulcher" meaning 'beautiful', describes the fish quite well. During spawning season the female sports a brilliant cherry red colored belly.

Even when not spawning they are an attractive fish, and may be found in a variety of color morphs such as yellow, red, green, and blue, in addition to the albino variety which has been bred for several decades. In addition to being colorful they remain small, a trait that makes them popular with those who don't have the space for, or interest in keeping large fish.

Adult males reach up to 10 cm ( 4 inches), while females grow no larger than 7 cm ( 3 inches).

P. pulcher was originally described by Boulenger in 1901, and first imported into Germany in 1913 by Christian Bruening. From there the plot thickens. When, and which species was first introduced to the trade is still debated. However it's safe to say that for several decades this species has been available under various names, including Kribensis, Niger Cichlid, Purple Cichlid, and Pallette Cichlid. Virtually all specimens now sold in the aquarium trade are captive-bred rather than wild-caught.

Albino Varieties: Albino varieties have been bred for several decades and are often offered for sale in shops. Owners have reported that even normally colored males prefer albino females, yet all females prefer normally colored males. It is believed the red belly present in females who are ready to spawn is a powerful attractant to the male, and it shows up better on an albino female.

Habitat/Care

P. pulcher is an undemanding fish when it comes to water conditions, which is another reason it's so popular. It originates from the drainage area at the mouth of the Ethiop River, Niger delta, where a variety of water conditions can be seen. The water of the low lying blackwater streams is acidic and very soft, while the delta waters are slightly brackish, more alkaline, and far harder than the streams that feed it. For this reason P. pulcher sometimes isn described as a brackish-water fish.

The ideal way to decide upon the water pH and hardness is to match it to the parameters of the tank from which your fish was raised. Ask the storeowner a few questions before purchasing your fish. If you are unable to determine its history, use the water you have available at home. That way you don't have to adjust it, and the fish will be more likely to have consistency when you perform water changes. Sudden changes in water chemistry is one stress factor that contributes to fish disease.

P. pulcher is often kept in a community tank, however care should be taken in choosing tankmakes. Although they are a peaceful fish, they may nip the fins of slow moving fish such as Angels. If other cichlids will be in the community tank, choose a species that is not bottom dwelling. That way they will not compete for the same territory. Avoid keeping them with another cave dwelling species, as P. pulcher love their caves.

Speaking of caves, even if you are not planning to spawn your P. pulcher, it is wise to provide them with caves. Rock formations or flowerpots are the most commonly used materials. To create a rock cave, select rocks that fit well together and glue them in place with silica gel or approved aquarium glue. This creates a solid structure that will not collapse on the fish. The cave need not be large, and ideally allows in minimal light and has only a single entrance. Clay or ceramic flowerpots may be used to fashion a cave, however make sure there are no chemicals on or in the pot and that the edges are smooth. A flowerpot turned upside down with a small opening, or a pot cut in two works very well. Even plastic pipes, coconut shells, or driftwood can be used to create suitable caves.

Substrate is also an important factor in creating a comfortable habitat for P. pulcher. They favor fine darker gravel, which they will quickly rearrange to suit their tastes. The tank itself should be well planted with real or artificial plants. Because they like to burrow they may uproot plants, however they are generally not destructive to the vegetation.

In addition to caves and plants to provide cover, an area for open swimming should be available. Characteristic of other cichlids, Kribensis are fast swimmers who can change direction in an instant and stop on a dime. They are territorial and if cramped may become aggressive, so take care to avoid overstocking the tank.

Diet
Feeding P. pulcher is easy. They are omnivorous and will accept flake or pellet foods, frozen brine shrimp, freshly hatched brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito larvae, bloodworms, and even vegetables such as zucchini. To maintain them in good health, feed them a variety of foods. Keep in mind that by nature they are bottom dwellers, so be sure to provide some foods that will sink, such as sinking pellets. When conditioning fish prior to breeding, provide plenty of live foods.

Breeding

Selecting a Pair: If you wish to breed P. pulcher, finding an established nesting pair makes the relatively simple process. However, you can select your own pair, as they are relatively easy to sex. Choose young specimens that are healthy and robust. P. pulcher reaches sexual maturity is as little as six months (females mature faster than males), so make inquiries - often the store owner knows the age of the fish.

Females have shorter rounded fins and a broad yellow band across the top of the dorsal fin, are smaller than the males, and have a more rounded belly that is bright red/purple when they are ready to spawn. Males are longer and thinner with fins that end in distinct points. They are less brilliantly colored than the females, especially the belly. Take care to get the same species of fish. There are several closely related species that may look similar, they will not spawn with each other.

Once a pair has been established do not introduce another fish into the tank. Males will invariably fight, and even two females will quarrel for the attention of the male.

Tank Setup: It is strongly recommended that they be given their own tank, as they become very aggressive while spawning and caring for their young. If kept in a tank with other fish, avoid bottom dwelling fish such as plecos. A tank as small as ten gallons will suffice, however a twenty-gallon or larger tank is ideal.

This is particularly important if the fry are allowed to remain with the adults as they are maturing. Slightly soft water at a pH of 7.0, usually yields fry in a relatively even ratio of males/females. The ideal water temperature is around 80 degrees. Lower or higher temps can affect the size of the clutch and even the sex ratio of the fry.

P. pulcher is a cave-spawner, so at least one or two caves must be available. Do not offer loose rocks as the structure they build may collapse on them causing injury or death. Either build a rock cave by gluing rocks together, or offer some other suitable structure. If using a flowerpot make a small opening in it, turn it upside down and bury it in the gravel. If using a coconut shell, cut off a small piece of one end to make an entrance, lay it on its side and press it down into the gravel.

If using PVC cut a foot long piece and secure in the gravel. Make sure all materials used are clean and free of toxins. If room allows, offer several caves so the pair can select their favorite.

Use fine gravel (under 3 mm) and fill the tank to a depth of at least an inch and a half to two inches, so the spawning pair can burrow. Large diameter substrate will hamper the pair from burrowing and also put the tiny fry at risk of dropping through spaces in the gravel, and subsequently perishing.

Factors Known to Affect Fry Sex Ratios - Experts have noted that P. pulcher produces roughly even sex ratios at a pH of 7. Softer more acid water often results in more females, while harder more alkaline water tips the scales in favor of males. However, some researchers have found that because sex in cichlids is not determined chromosomally, they may in effect 'choose' their sex long after fertilization.

Spawning: Once the proper conditions exist, it takes no effort to induce spawning. Condition the pair by feeding them a generous diet that includes live foods. Their colors will intensify as they prepare to spawn. Generally the female will initiate breeding by showing off her brightly colored abdomen. To entice the male she will arch her body, curl her fins, and vibrate her body in a courtship display. Females ready to spawn can be quite aggressive, and are often described by their owners as 'cranky'.

It is common to see the breeding pair moving gravel out of the cave just prior to spawning. They are busy preparing the cave for the young fry. Once the pair have prepared their nest spawning will take place within the cave, where two to three hundred eggs will be laid. From the time the eggs are laid until the fry are free swimming, the female will remain with the cave, coming out only very rarely to eat. The male will patrol around the cave fastidiously protecting the female and their brood.

Caring For Fry: Fry development will vary somewhat based on temperature. At 29 C the young will be fully developed and able to swim outside the cave in one week. You'll have to look closely as the speckled fry dart just across the top of the gravel and are difficult to spot. When venturing out of the cave, they will stick next to the parent like a shadow.

Once the fry are free-swimming feed them freshly hatched brine shrimp, very finely crumbled flake food, or one of the commercially available fry foods. Offer small quantities of food several times daily. The frequent feedings as well as the wastes produced by the growing young make frequent water changes absolutely critical. If not performed the toxins can damage or kill the fry. However, take care to avoid adding or removing water or vacuuming the gravel in the area near the cave. Doing so is stressful for the fish and removes infusoria that the young feed on.

As the fry become more active, both parents will usually tend them. However in some cases one parent will take over the young and not allow the other parent near, even going so far as to attack the non-custodial parent. When this occurs the parent not tending the young should be promptly moved to another tank to avoid fights.

In two to four weeks the fry will reach approximately a half-inch in size and should be separated completely from the parents. At this point the parents are ready to mate again, and will spawn if placed in their breeding tank.