The Frame

• 1). Put goggles on and measure three 34-inch long pieces from the 10-foot long 2-by-4-inch board. Cut with a hand saw.
  
  
• 2). Create a 34-by-90-inch rectangle by using both of the 2-by-6-inch-by-12-foot pieces as the sides and two of the 2-by-2-by-34-inch lengths for the top and bottom. Secure with nails.
  
  
• 3). Measure and mark off this wooden frame every 15-inches. At the 45-inch mark nail the remaining 2-by-4-by-34-inch long piece of board to the frame.
  
  
• 4). Measure the 2-by-2-inch, 8-foot board into 34-inch increments and cut with a hand saw. Secure these pieces to the frame at every 15-inch mark with nails.
  
  
• 5). Lay the sheet of Masonite pegboard into the wooden frame and top with the two sheets of Styrofoam insulation.
  
  

Heating Element

• 1). Measure and mark six pieces of the copper pipes at 86-inches, 17 pieces at 2 inches long and two pieces at 18 inches. Cut pieces with a hack saw or pipe cutter.
  
  
• 2). Lay out the six pieces of 86-inch long copper pipe into six horizontal rows on a hard surface such as concrete.
  
  
• 3). Dry fit and assemble one side by the following pattern: elbow attached to one 86-inch piece, 2-inch piece of copper tube, T with one 86-inch piece attached, 2-inch piece of copper tube, T with one 86-inch piece attached, 2-inch piece of copper tube, T without 86-inch piece but the opening faces outward, 2-inch piece of copper tube, T with one 86-inch piece attached, 2-inch piece of copper tube, T with one 86-inch piece attached, 2-inch piece of copper tube, elbow with the last 86-inch piece attached. Repeat the pattern with the elbows, T's, and 2-inch spacers only on the other side.
  
  
• 4). Take apart and clean each of the pieces with solder flux. Solder the pieces together using 50-50 solder. Solder the copper frame to the 36-by-90-inch 12-gauge copper sheet.
  
  
• 5). Dry fit a 2-inch spacer onto both of the outward facing T's. Add to one of the spacers an elbow followed by one of the 18-inch pieces and one of the male adapters. Attach a T onto the other 2-inch spacer on the other side and attach a male adapter to the horizontal end. Connect the other 18-inch pipe to the downward facing opening on the T and add a male adapter to the end. Once dry fitted take apart, clean, and solder together.
  
  
• 6). Paint the wooden frame front and back black. Let dry completely and attach the wooden frame to the 36-by-90-inch 12-gauge copper sheet with copper tubing using copper band straps.
  
  
• 7). Flip frame over so that the divided part of the frame is on top. Place windows in the divisions of the frame and secure.
  
  

Assembly

• 1). Move window frame to where the shower will be located. Lean up against a tree or log to increase sun exposure. Set up 40-gallon hot water heater in the area where the shower will be.
  
  
• 2). Attach one of end of 10 feet of flexible host to the end with just a male adapter and the other end to the bottom connection of the hot water heater. Repeat this process with the top male adapter but instead connect it to the top of the hot water heater.
  
  
• 3). Cut 2 feet of copper tubing and attach it the the top of the hot water heater.
  
  
• 4). Cut 7 feet of copper tubing and attach it to a small tree using a zip ties. Cut 1-foot off the bottom of this pipe and attach a T. Attach the copper tubing running from the bottom outlet to the T.
  
  
• 5). Attach a 2-inch piece of copper tubing onto each valve and connect to a T. Attach another 2-inch piece of tubing to the T and place a male adapter on the end. Add the shower head to this end.