How to Cure Deer Hide for Leather
- 1). Soak hide in a plastic trash can filled with clear water, until it feels pliable and soft. The time it takes depends on the condition of the hide but can be as little as two hours and as long as 12. Never soak over 12 hours without changing the water. Weigh the hide down with clean rocks so it is totally immersed.
- 2). Spread the hide over the board, flesh-side up. Work the hide to break up fat and tissue that is still attached. With both hands, pull hide taut and then pull it over the edge of the board, while moving it back and forth. Drill holes in the board about four inches apart all round. Cut holes 2 to 3 inches from the edge of the hide and lace with nylon cord, tying it to the holes in the board with half hitch knots and pulling taut.
- 3). Scrape the hide with a dull hacksaw blade. Remove the shiny layer of tissue. The hide may have to be soaked and scraped several times.
- 4). Mix 1 oz. borax to each gallon of warm water in the plastic trash can. Add 1 tbsp. dishwashing liquid. Stir this with a wooden paddle, add the hide and stir again, soaking for two to four hours. Remove the hide and tie it back on the board, flesh-side up. Using a single blade knife, hold it flat against the side and begin to scrape until all tissue and debris are gone. If some tissue is stubborn, soak and scrape again. This process is called scudding.
- 5). Rinse with warm water and carefully squeeze excess water out but do not wring. At this time any holes, except the holes that hold it to the board, can be repaired with wax thread or dental floss.
- 6). Tan hide with commercial tanning solution using the directions on the bottle, while the hide is still damp. Then stretch the hide out to dry on the board.
- 7). When the hide is nearly dry, remove it from the board and start to stretch it in all directions. Run it over the edge of the board. The secret to soft leather is how much it is worked.
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