Assembling the Table

• 1). Cut two pieces of the 2-by-4-inch boards to 46 inches and two pieces of the 2-by-8-inch board to 26 inches. Retain the rest of the 2-by-4-inch boards for use in Step 4.
  
  
• 2). Arrange your boards in a rectangle so that the cut ends of the 2-by-4-inch boards are flush against the edges of the 2-by-8-inch boards. Nail into place. Stabilize the table base by nailing the corner brackets into the inside corners.
  
  
• 3). Cut the 1/4-inch cage wire to 50 inches long and stretch over the table base so that about two inches is turned up against the 2-by-8-inch boards on each side. Tack into place with the small poultry tacks or wood staples and the hammer. Use one tack every 4 to 6 inches.
  
  
• 4). Cut eight of the remaining 2-by-4-inch boards to 22 inches, which will place the table at a comfortable height to skirt from most chairs. These form the legs.
  
  
• 5). Affix the legs into the sawhorse braces by sliding the 2-by-4-inch boards into the slots. Turn the table over onto the sawhorse braces so that the overhanging 2-by-8-inch board is wedged into the braces a few inches from each end. The side of the table the wire is tacked onto should now be facing down, and there should be a 4-inch lip around the edge of the table to prevent your fleece from falling off while skirting.
  
  

Adding the Optional Trash Catcher

• 1). Screw a wall hook into the 2-by-4-inch beam just above the leg support on each corner.
  
  
• 2). Sew a D- or O-ring onto each corner of your fabric. An old tablecloth or twin bed sheet works fine.
  
  
• 3). Hook a ring onto each wall hook so that the fabric hangs beneath the wire mesh to catch sand, grass, seconds and anything else that is separated from the blanket.
  
  
• 4). To remove the cloth once it is filled, carefully unhook two of the corners along the 26-inch side of the table and bring them over to the remaining two corners. Unhook those as well, and the trash will be inside the pocket you created.