Determine Your Gauge

• 1). Knit a 4-inch-by-4-inch square.
  
  
• 2). Lay a ruler across this work and count the number of stitches across and the number of rows down within four inches. This is the gauge, meaning the number of stitches and rows achieved with this yarn and this size needles.
  
  
• 3). Divide this number by four to get the number of stitches per inch.
  
  

Measuring for Size

• 1). Lay a tape measure across the chest at the fullest part of the breasts to measure the circumference of the chest.
  
  
• 2). You can also lay a favorite sweater flat and measure the chest from underarm seam to underarm seam. Then multiply that measurement by 2 to get the circumference.
  
  
• 3). Write this number down.
  
  

The KEY Number

• 1). Multiply the number of stitches per inch in the gauge by the chest measurement.
  
  
• 2). Write this number down because it will be used throughout the sweater.
  
  
• 3). This now becomes the KEY number.
  
  

Casting on Stitches for the Body

• 1). Multiply the KEY Number by 0.90.
  
  
• 2). Cast on this number of stitches using the circular needle.
  
  
• 3). Knit one round.
  
  

Knitting the Body

• 1). Work back and forth in K1, P1 ribbing for three inches.
  
  
• 2). Knit in stockinette stitch to desired length, stopping at the underarm.
  
  
• 3). Be sure to slip 1 stitch at the beginning of each row for a nice edge selvedge that will be used later.
  
  

Sleeves

• 1). Multiply the KEY Number by 0.20. With double pointed needles, cast on this number of stitches for each sleeve cuff.
  
  
• 2). Knit in K1, P1 ribbing for three inches.
  
  
• 3). Multiply the KEY Number by 0.33 and then add one inch worth of stitches. This is the number of stitches needed for the width of the upper arm.
  
  
• 4). Subtract the number of stitches cast on for the sleeve cuff from the number of stitches for the width of the upper arm. This is the number of increases needed over the length of the sleeve. Measure for sleeve length from wrist to underarm.
  
  
• 5). Subtract the three inches of cuff already worked from this measurement. Distribute these increases evenly along the sleeve length.
  
  

Determining Underarm stitches

• 1). Multiply the KEY Number by 0.08. This is the number of stitches that need to be reserved for the underarm.
  
  
• 2). Slip this number of stitches onto stitch holders from both sleeves.
  
  
• 3). Divide the number of stitches cast on for the body by two. Now, divide that number by two again. Subtract one-half of the underarm stitches number from this number. This is the seamline of the body and the point where the underarm stitches begin.
  
  
• 4). Count from the edge of the work to this number stitch. Slip the number of underarm stitches to a stitch holder. Do the same for the other side.
  
  

Joining and Beginning the Raglan Decreases

• 1). Knit across the body section (still on the circular needle) to the stitch holder, place a stitch marker, knit the stitches for the right sleeve off the double pointed needles, place a stitch marker, knit across the back of the body to the next stitch holder, place a stitch marker, knit the stitches of the left sleeve off the double pointed needles, place a stitch marker, knit across the remaining body stitches. Now, the work is all on one circular needle. There should be four stitch markers on the needles, all at the points where the sleeves join the body. These are now known as the raglan seamline decreases. This is where the yoke of the sweater begins, or the part of the sweater between the underarm and the neck line.
  
  
• 2). Knit for 1½ inches. Count to be sure the front stitches equal the back stitches. Count to be sure both sleeves have the same number of stitches. Increase or decrease a stitch or two to make these numbers even out on the next round. Begin the raglan decreases at the right front seamline. Decrease two stitches at each marker every fourth round. Then, decrease two stitches every other round until twenty to twenty one stitches remain to be decreased on the sleeves.
  
  
• 3). Decide how far up sweater you want the neck line to start. If standard crew neck, work until 20 stitches remain to be decreased on sleeve (if sleeve had an even number of stitches when you started to decrease) or 21 stitches remain to be decreased on sleeve (if sleeve had an uneven number of stitches when you started to decrease). On the right front of the sweater, count 14 stitches away from the raglan seam line. Put the remaining stitches on a stitch holder. Do the same for the left side. These stitches will become the front neck of the sweater.
  
  
• 4). Continue working back and forth on remaining stitches, being sure to continue the decreases. At the beginning of each row, slip one stitch, either as if to purl or as if to knit, depending on the row, for a nice chain selvedge.
  
  
• 5). Working the Neck - Purl one row. On the next four knit rows, decrease one stitch at the neck edges as: slip 1, K2tog, work to last three stitches (working the decreases as usual) SSK, K1. Continue only the raglan decreases until all the sleeve lines come together and all the sleeve stitches are gone.
  
  
• 6). Neck ribbing - Slip one-half of the held stitches onto the 16-inch circular needle. Knit into the right side neck chain selvedge, knit the stitches across the back, knit into the left side neck chain selvedge, then knit the rest of the held stitches. Knit in K1, P1 ribbing for one inch. Cast off loosely in ribbing.
  
  
• 7). Button Plackets and Buttonholes - Pick up stitches along the front edges of the cardigan (three stitches for every four rows). Knit in garter stitch until one inch wide. Make buttonholes as often as desired.
  
  
• 8). Finishing - Graft underarms seams together using the Kitchener stitch. Sew on buttons. Weave in loose ends and wear.