How to Sew a Vintage Dress
- 1). Take your measurements, or the measurements of the future wearer, using the tailor's measuring tape. Measure the bust, waist, and hips, and write down. Carefully read the instructions on your pattern, and take note of the measurements assigned to specified sizes. Bear in mind that the styles of some eras, such as dresses of the 1950s, may have a more exaggerated waist size, due to the prevalence of girdles and other undergarments in that era. You may need to alter your pattern to match your measurements in your specified size.
- 2). Roll out your pattern paper. Trace the pieces of your pattern in your specified size onto your pattern paper, making sure to transfer all grain lines, tabs, darts, and other markings onto your pattern. Cut out your pattern pieces. Iron your muslin and lay out on your table. Pin your pattern pieces to the muslin, making sure that the grain lines on your pattern match the grain of the fabric. Trace the pattern shapes onto your muslin, once again transferring all markings to the muslin pieces.
- 3). Cut out your muslin pieces, making sure to include the seam allowances specified in the pattern. Pin together and baste in place. Try on your muslin and make adjustments where necessary. Make note of these changes by marking the muslin, transferring these changes in congruent marks to your pattern pieces, and also by writing down a list of your changes to your list of measurements. Sew together with your sewing machine. Press all seams and then try on to test the fit.
- 4). Once you are satisfied with the fit of all parts of your dress, as well as the length of the skirt and the sleeves, take off the muslin. Iron your dress fabric and place right side facing down on your cutting surface. Place all pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric and pin in place. Double check both your list and your marked muslin to ensure that all marked changes have also been marked on your pattern pieces. Once this is verified, trace all your pattern pieces onto the fabric, including all markings on your pattern pieces. Cut out, once again making sure that you have included the necessary seam allowances determined after your muslin was created.
- 5). Add seam finishing tape where necessary, pinning in place and sewing onto your fabric pieces. Pin your fabric pieces together to form the full garment and baste in place. Try on to check the fit. Make any necessary adjustments and then sew together. Finish the hem on the skirt and sleeves. Add necessary buttons and trim. Press all seams open.
Source...