Function

• Training collars work in many ways. Some, like no-bark collars, emit a spritz of unpleasant citronella or an electric buzz when a dog barks for too long. Electronic collars (known as e-collars) work by giving the dog a small electric shock. These are commonly used with underground or invisible fencing and shock the dog when it approaches the perimeter, teaching it to stay within the boundary. Other e-collars are used in hunting or to warn a dog not to do an undesireable behavior and triggered by the handler, usually from a distance. Prong and choke collars tighten around the dog's neck and are used to get attention or to teach a dog not to pull on the leash. Head halter collars give the handler control by forcing the dog's head to turn back whenever it pulls on the leash.
  
  

Misconceptions

• Training collars are often used incorrectly, and it is important to learn how to effectively and fairly use them. A good group training class or session with a knowledgable trainer will teach you the correct technique for your chosen collar. Dogs with soft temperaments may never need more than a regular buckle collar for training. Exuberant, large or strong-willed dogs may benefit greatly from a prong or e-collar for training. Perhaps the most common misconception about all types of training collars is that they are to be used for controlling the dog instead of training it. A dog who only walks nicely on leash with a head halter is not trained, it is merely controlled. Training collars should be an aid to training your dog so that it learns to behave wearing a regular collar, or even no collar at all.
  
  

Types

• The most common training collar is the choke or chain collar, which tightens uncomfortably when the dog pulls. When properly used, it should never actually choke the dog, but instead give a quick attention getting "pop." Some dogs learn to ignore the discomfort and pull anyway. This often results from improper use of the collar, and can cause tracheal and neck damage over time.
  Martingale or limited slip collars are similar to choke collars but do not tighten all the way and can be adjusted to tighten just as much as necessary. A prong or pinch collar is similar to a choke, except it has blunted prongs that press uncomfortably into the dog's neck, but never chokes it. Despite its appearance, many experts consider this more humane than a choke collar and it is very effective for large, strong dogs.
  Electronic collars are used to stop a dog from barking incessantly, to keep a dog on property bounded by an underground fence or to train a dog to work at a distance from the handler.
  Head halter collars fit around a dog's head. They don't choke or restrain, but force the dog's head to turn back whenever it pulls. They are only used to teach leash manners and not used in general obedience training.
  
  

Warning

• Almost every type of training collar has risks. Choke collars have been found to cause tracheal damage with long-term use, particularly if the dog is repeatedly allowed to pull on one. They should never be used on breeds with a higher risk of tracheal collapse, like pugs, Yorkshire terriers and many other toy dogs. Used incorrectly as punishment, electronic collars can actually increase bad behavior and, in some cases, aggression. Timing is crucial with e-collars and owners should get expert instruction on their use. Dogs wearing head halters are prone to whiplash-type neck injuries if they lunge after something while wearing one. No training collar should be left on a dog unless it's actually being used.
  
  

Expert Insight

• Experts agree that in all cases, proper fit is important for any training collar to work effectively. E-collars, such as those for invisible fences, have two prongs that must make contact with the dog's skin to work properly. The prongs should be snug, but not digging into the dog's neck. Very long-haired dogs may need a patch of fur shaved around the throat so the prongs can make contact. Choke and prong collars should be situated high on the neck, snugly under the dog's jaw, and not on the mid or lower neck. A head halter should be adjusted so there is no slack, while not binding or rubbing the dog's face.