What is Brocade?

• According to Dan River's "A Dictionary of Textile Terms," brocade is a "rich Jacquard-woven fabric with all-over interwoven design of raised figures or flowers...Often gives an embossed appearance by contrasting surfaces, colors, and gold or silver threads on satin or twill grounds."
  
  More simply put, brocade is a cloth elaborately woven with a raised pattern. The name itself comes from the Italian "broccato," which means "embossed cloth." It's usually made on a loom by adding an extra weft. (Weft is a yarn that's pulled under and over another piece of yarn going in the opposite direction.) This makes brocade look embroidered.
  
  

Origins

• Nobody can say for sure who created brocade fabric. However, pieces of brocade exist from China's Sung Dynasty (960 to 1279 AD). In Europe, we know brocade was in use by the 13th century. Some historians believe the Crusaders brought the cloth to Europe.
  
  

Early History

• Through much of brocade's history, the cloth was reserved for the wealthiest and most powerful people. In some cultures, brocade was only used for special ceremonies.
  
  

The Rise of Brocade

• In 18th century Europe, however, the use of brocade became more widespread. Men and women from the upper and middle classes wore brocade as a regular part of their wardrobe. For men, brocade was reserved for either vests or waistcoats. Women might wear brocade accessories (including shoes), but many dresses featured large amount of the cloth, too. Brocade was also used extensively for household use, including as table covers, bell pulls, curtains, furniture upholstery and as part of bed linens.
  
  

Brocade's Decline

• By the 19th century, men had put off brocade, except for an occasional vest. Women, too, wore brocade much less often, reserving small cuts of cloth for shoes, purses, vests and skirt panels.
  
  In the 1900s, brocade came in and out of fashion for women. The 1910s saw an upsurge in the use of the cloth, often as a center panel for evening gowns. In the 1950s through 1970s, brocade was not uncommonly used for an entire evening dress.
  
  

Modern Use

• Brocade is still used by some fashion designers, primarily for women's evening and cocktail dresses. It can also be found in wedding gowns and men's wedding vests. In recent years, high-end designers have toyed with brocade fabrics even for everyday wear.