How to Make a Wooden Cutting Board in 6 Steps
This project is a good one for cooks who want a long-lasting butcher block cutting board that won't warp over time or move as they use it.
An added bonus is the curved notch at one end that allows you to scrape food from the cutting board directly into your bowl.
Step 1: Decide on the design, dimensions and materials you will be using for your cutting board.
Assemble the required tools and materials.
Since you will be using several power tools, be sure to wear safety glasses.
Also, have a face mask for when you sand the cutting board.
Step 2: Assemble the butcher block.
Cut three 17-inch lengths of 2-inch thick clear maple on the miter saws.
NOTE: These are straight cuts, not miter cuts.
Alternate the wood grain by flipping the middle board over so that its grain runs counter to the outer two boards.
Apply wood glue to the edges of the board where they will join.
Clamp them together while the glue dries.
Step 3: Smooth the butcher block.
Use a belt sander to flatten the cutting board surface so there is no noticeable ridge/transition from board to board.
To do this, first move the sander across the boards in a diagonal motion.
Once the transition is smooth, sand with the grain along the length of the boards.
Switch to a random orbit sand and to progressively finer grades of sand paper until the surface of the cutting board has no discernible texture.
Trim one end of the board on a table saw.
Place the board in a wooden cradle that holds the wood steady as you slide it into the blade.
Cut only a thin strip off the end, to smooth the edges of the three boards you glued together.
Establish which side of the board will be the top - typically the surface with the more attractive wood grain.
Step 4: Notch the cutting board.
Flip the board so the bottom side faces upward and draw a semicircle at the unfinished end with a compass and pencil.
Pass the board through the band saw and cut along the semicircle tracing.
Add a drum sander to your drill press and smooth away any saw marks along the curved vertical edge of the circle.
Install a rabbeting bit with ball bearing guides on your router.
The bit will cut a recess into the bottom edge of the semicircle while leaving a collar of wood on the top surface.
Turn the board bottom side up and route along the edge to form the recess.
The recess will allow a bowl of a particular dimension to slide into the board without gaps and to catch the food.
Step 5: Add legs to the chopping block.
Drill four legs sockets into the bottom of the cutting board, using a drill press.
DO NOT drill through the board.
Place a socket at each corner on the flat end of the board, about 1/2 inch off the long and the short sides.
Align the two sockets about 1/2 inch from the long side of the board, but inset them about two inches from the short side to provide clearance for the semicircle and recess.
Coat the interior of the leg sockets with glue.
Tap in short wooden dowels for the legs.
Ensure that the dowels are identical in length and tap them into the same depth so the board will stand levelly.
Step 6: Finish the surface.
Add a mineral oil coating to protect the board from food and liquids.
Sand the mineral oil into the board using No.
400 wet and dry sandpaper.
An added bonus is the curved notch at one end that allows you to scrape food from the cutting board directly into your bowl.
Step 1: Decide on the design, dimensions and materials you will be using for your cutting board.
Assemble the required tools and materials.
Since you will be using several power tools, be sure to wear safety glasses.
Also, have a face mask for when you sand the cutting board.
Step 2: Assemble the butcher block.
Cut three 17-inch lengths of 2-inch thick clear maple on the miter saws.
NOTE: These are straight cuts, not miter cuts.
Alternate the wood grain by flipping the middle board over so that its grain runs counter to the outer two boards.
Apply wood glue to the edges of the board where they will join.
Clamp them together while the glue dries.
Step 3: Smooth the butcher block.
Use a belt sander to flatten the cutting board surface so there is no noticeable ridge/transition from board to board.
To do this, first move the sander across the boards in a diagonal motion.
Once the transition is smooth, sand with the grain along the length of the boards.
Switch to a random orbit sand and to progressively finer grades of sand paper until the surface of the cutting board has no discernible texture.
Trim one end of the board on a table saw.
Place the board in a wooden cradle that holds the wood steady as you slide it into the blade.
Cut only a thin strip off the end, to smooth the edges of the three boards you glued together.
Establish which side of the board will be the top - typically the surface with the more attractive wood grain.
Step 4: Notch the cutting board.
Flip the board so the bottom side faces upward and draw a semicircle at the unfinished end with a compass and pencil.
Pass the board through the band saw and cut along the semicircle tracing.
Add a drum sander to your drill press and smooth away any saw marks along the curved vertical edge of the circle.
Install a rabbeting bit with ball bearing guides on your router.
The bit will cut a recess into the bottom edge of the semicircle while leaving a collar of wood on the top surface.
Turn the board bottom side up and route along the edge to form the recess.
The recess will allow a bowl of a particular dimension to slide into the board without gaps and to catch the food.
Step 5: Add legs to the chopping block.
Drill four legs sockets into the bottom of the cutting board, using a drill press.
DO NOT drill through the board.
Place a socket at each corner on the flat end of the board, about 1/2 inch off the long and the short sides.
Align the two sockets about 1/2 inch from the long side of the board, but inset them about two inches from the short side to provide clearance for the semicircle and recess.
Coat the interior of the leg sockets with glue.
Tap in short wooden dowels for the legs.
Ensure that the dowels are identical in length and tap them into the same depth so the board will stand levelly.
Step 6: Finish the surface.
Add a mineral oil coating to protect the board from food and liquids.
Sand the mineral oil into the board using No.
400 wet and dry sandpaper.
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