Lyon - French Food, History, and Roman Theaters
River Cruise Port of Call in Southern France
Travelers to France have long recognized the great food, history, and fascinating sites of Lyon. Those who love river cruises can see Lyon when sailing on the Saône and Rhône Rivers of southern France. They can easily extend their stay in this lovely city since the river cruises embark or disembark in Lyon. The city, which is France's second largest, has been important since Roman times. It is the center of the French textile, chemical, and metal industries, and is especially know for its silk.
Lyon is also justifiably proud of its macarons and is beautifully lit at night.
I visited Lyon for the christening of the Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection luxury river ship the SS Catherine, and then did a short preview cruise of Uniworld's 8-day "Burgundy & Provence" voyage that sails between Lyon and Avignon.
Uniworld spends two nights in Lyon on its southern France itinerary and includes a bus tour of Lyon that gives guests an overview of many of the important sites in the city and also visits Fourvière Hill to enjoy the overlook of the city from the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière. Those who prefer to walk can stroll the narrow streets and traboules (historic passageways) of the St. Jean old quarter, taking time to peek in some of the many shop windows that feature tasty delicacies. A third option is to take one of the bicycles that are complimentary to the Uniworld guests on their all-inclusive cruise. These bicycles are terrific for riding along the river and around the city with a guide.
Lyon is often considered the culinary capital of France, so foodies might want to visit the Institut Paul Bocuse on their own. Chef Bocuse has long operated a three-star Michelin restaurant on the outskirts of Lyon, and students at his cooking school love to show off their talents as they have a tea ceremony and demonstrate how to make crepes.
Several other river cruise lines feature Lyon. Viking River Cruises has three ships on its "Portraits of Southern France" itinerary, and AmaWaterways, Avalon, A-Rosa, Scenic, and Tauck also visit Lyon on similiar itineraries.
Let's take a walking tour of Lyon, starting with things to see in Vieux Lyon and on Fourvière Hill.
Walking Tour of Vieux Lyon
Several bridges connect the old town (Vieux Lyon) on the right (west) bank of the Saône River with the narrow peninsula where most of the hotels are located. This peninsula is called Presqu'île and is located on a narrow strip of land between the Saône and Rhône Rivers. The two rivers merge at its tip. Leaving the bustling city on the peninsula, visitors will immediately know they are in an old town when they see the narrow streets and tiny shops.
Vieux Lyon is a perfect place to walk, explore, and sit outside with a macaron and coffee.
If you walk across the pedestrian bridge, you have a nice view of the Court of Justice. This courthouse is best known as the site of the trial of Klaus Barbie, who was the head of the Lyon Gestapo during World War II and was often called, "the butcher of Lyon". He escaped to South America after the war, but was extradited to France in 1983, where he was convicted for war crimes and died in prison.
Walking away from the river, on the left of the Court of Justice is the St. Jean Cathedral.
Vieux Lyon - Primatiale St-Jean Cathedral
The Primatiale St-Jean Cathedral sits in the center of the old town on the riverbank. It was built between the 12th and 15th centuries. The Romanesque cathedral is on a large square in Vieux Lyon. It is best known for its intricate 30-foot tall astronomical clock that announces the time in a grand style, but only four times a day (noon, 2 pm, 3 pm, and 4 pm).
Although St. Jean is not the largest or grandest cathedral in France, its name acknowledges its role as the "primate cathedral of Gaul", serving the oldest Christian city in France.
Covered Passageways (Traboules) of Old Lyon
While strolling along the narrow streets of old Lyon, visitors need to be aware of the traboules, which are the covered passageways that lead from the street to tiny shops and homes behind the shops. Several lead off Rue St. Jean. Look for a street-front door or covered walkway.
The traboules were shortcuts built to link the three main streets of the old town. Although many of the traboules lead to residences, visitors are welcome to explore as long as they are quiet and don't go up any stairs.
Those passing into the passageways find quaint courtyards, spiral stairways, and lovely arches.
Many of these very narrow winding passageways are in the old textile area of Lyon and were covered to protect the costly silk in inclement weather as it was moved from one stage of processing to the next.
Macarons in Lyon
While strolling the streets of old town, be sure to visit one of the pastry shops filled with macarons, a sweet cookie made from a mixture of egg whites, almond flour, and both granulated and powdered sugar. Although macarons arrived in France from Italy, they have been made in much of the country since the late 18th century.
Don't confuse macarons with macaroons. The two cookies look and taste much different.
Macarons are made from egg whites and have a hard shell on either side with a filling of buttercream, jam, or ganache in the middle. As seen in the photo above, they come in many different colors and have a smooth texture on their shells. In the USA, we often eat cookies called meringues, which are similar to the macaron shell, but have no filling.
Macaroons are also made from egg whites, but this cookie has finely ground nuts and coconut in its recipe. These cookies are flatter, rough in texture, and not colored.
Metallic Tower on Fourviere Hill in Lyon
After walking around the old town, most tourists make their way to the funicular train to go up to the top of Fourvière Hill. Exiting the train station, the first thing seen is the Metallic Tower.
The Metallic Tower sits atop Fourvière Hill in Lyon. It was originally an observation tower that was completed in 1894. Today, it's a television tower and not accessible to the public. And, yes it does look like the Eiffel Tower.
The tower is 282 feet high.
Notre Dame Basilica in Lyon
The Notre Dame Basilica dominates much of the top of Fourvière Hill. The building of the church was completed in the early 20th century. The inside of the church is filled with exquisite mosaics paying tribute to the Virgin Mary and describing her place in the history of France, like when Mary spoke to Joan of Arc or caused a miracle to help the Christians defeat the Turks at the battle of Lepanto in 1571.
The gold statue atop the church is of Mary.
When visiting the Basilica, be sure to check out the views of Lyon. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Mont Blanc in the Alps. The next two photos provide a glimpse of what is seen.
View of the Peninsula from Fourviere Hill in Lyon
Fourvière Hill provides excellent views of Lyon. In this photo, the Saône River is in the foreground, and the downtown area on the peninsula (Presqu'île) stretches towards the Rhône River. The large brick building on the left of the photo is a Radisson Hotel.
The next photo was also taken from the top of Fourvière Hill and shows the St. Jean Cathedral in old town.
St. Jean Cathedral in Vieux Lyon
This photo shows the size of the St-Jean Cathedral in the center of the old town of Lyon. It's possible to walk up or down the road connecting Vieux Lyon with the top of Fourvière Hill. Before heading back down to the city, visitors need to walk to the right (when facing the river) to see the huge old Roman theaters.
Fountain in Downtown Lyon
Walking around the peninsula and the old town of Lyon, it's easy to forget that this cosmopolitan area was a Roman settlement over 2000 years ago. Where Lyon stands today, Rome founded a major transportation and administrative hub in 43 BC and called the city Lugdunum. I like Lyon better.
Most of the excavation of ancient Lugdunum was done in the 20th century. Although archaeologists have uncovered homes, shops, and other structures, the most impressive are the ruins of two large Roman theaters that flow down the hillside near the Notre Dame Basilica.
The larger theater originally sat 10,000 must-have-been-skinny Romans, but only seats 3,000 today when it is used for outdoor concerts.
Those who love history should save time for the excellent Gallo-Roman Museum on the site of the theaters. This museum has many interesting exhibits, and the signage is in both English and French.
The ancient road dividing the two theaters leads back to the funicular station. Before we leave Lyon, let's take a quick look at the things to see on the peninsula.
Many of the major hotels are on the peninsula (called Presqu'île) between the two rivers of Lyon. In addition to hotels, this area is filled with shops, cafes, restaurants, and squares. The largest square is called Place Bellecour. It is one of Europe's largest and is in the heart of the city's retail center. Presqu'île also has many pedestrian streets, making it fun to walk both in the daytime and evening.
Travelers to France have long recognized the great food, history, and fascinating sites of Lyon. Those who love river cruises can see Lyon when sailing on the Saône and Rhône Rivers of southern France. They can easily extend their stay in this lovely city since the river cruises embark or disembark in Lyon. The city, which is France's second largest, has been important since Roman times. It is the center of the French textile, chemical, and metal industries, and is especially know for its silk.
Lyon is also justifiably proud of its macarons and is beautifully lit at night.
I visited Lyon for the christening of the Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection luxury river ship the SS Catherine, and then did a short preview cruise of Uniworld's 8-day "Burgundy & Provence" voyage that sails between Lyon and Avignon.
Uniworld spends two nights in Lyon on its southern France itinerary and includes a bus tour of Lyon that gives guests an overview of many of the important sites in the city and also visits Fourvière Hill to enjoy the overlook of the city from the Basilique Notre Dame de Fourvière. Those who prefer to walk can stroll the narrow streets and traboules (historic passageways) of the St. Jean old quarter, taking time to peek in some of the many shop windows that feature tasty delicacies. A third option is to take one of the bicycles that are complimentary to the Uniworld guests on their all-inclusive cruise. These bicycles are terrific for riding along the river and around the city with a guide.
Lyon is often considered the culinary capital of France, so foodies might want to visit the Institut Paul Bocuse on their own. Chef Bocuse has long operated a three-star Michelin restaurant on the outskirts of Lyon, and students at his cooking school love to show off their talents as they have a tea ceremony and demonstrate how to make crepes.
Several other river cruise lines feature Lyon. Viking River Cruises has three ships on its "Portraits of Southern France" itinerary, and AmaWaterways, Avalon, A-Rosa, Scenic, and Tauck also visit Lyon on similiar itineraries.
Let's take a walking tour of Lyon, starting with things to see in Vieux Lyon and on Fourvière Hill.
Walking Tour of Vieux Lyon
Several bridges connect the old town (Vieux Lyon) on the right (west) bank of the Saône River with the narrow peninsula where most of the hotels are located. This peninsula is called Presqu'île and is located on a narrow strip of land between the Saône and Rhône Rivers. The two rivers merge at its tip. Leaving the bustling city on the peninsula, visitors will immediately know they are in an old town when they see the narrow streets and tiny shops.
Vieux Lyon is a perfect place to walk, explore, and sit outside with a macaron and coffee.
If you walk across the pedestrian bridge, you have a nice view of the Court of Justice. This courthouse is best known as the site of the trial of Klaus Barbie, who was the head of the Lyon Gestapo during World War II and was often called, "the butcher of Lyon". He escaped to South America after the war, but was extradited to France in 1983, where he was convicted for war crimes and died in prison.
Walking away from the river, on the left of the Court of Justice is the St. Jean Cathedral.
Vieux Lyon - Primatiale St-Jean Cathedral
The Primatiale St-Jean Cathedral sits in the center of the old town on the riverbank. It was built between the 12th and 15th centuries. The Romanesque cathedral is on a large square in Vieux Lyon. It is best known for its intricate 30-foot tall astronomical clock that announces the time in a grand style, but only four times a day (noon, 2 pm, 3 pm, and 4 pm).
Although St. Jean is not the largest or grandest cathedral in France, its name acknowledges its role as the "primate cathedral of Gaul", serving the oldest Christian city in France.
Covered Passageways (Traboules) of Old Lyon
While strolling along the narrow streets of old Lyon, visitors need to be aware of the traboules, which are the covered passageways that lead from the street to tiny shops and homes behind the shops. Several lead off Rue St. Jean. Look for a street-front door or covered walkway.
The traboules were shortcuts built to link the three main streets of the old town. Although many of the traboules lead to residences, visitors are welcome to explore as long as they are quiet and don't go up any stairs.
Those passing into the passageways find quaint courtyards, spiral stairways, and lovely arches.
Many of these very narrow winding passageways are in the old textile area of Lyon and were covered to protect the costly silk in inclement weather as it was moved from one stage of processing to the next.
Macarons in Lyon
While strolling the streets of old town, be sure to visit one of the pastry shops filled with macarons, a sweet cookie made from a mixture of egg whites, almond flour, and both granulated and powdered sugar. Although macarons arrived in France from Italy, they have been made in much of the country since the late 18th century.
Don't confuse macarons with macaroons. The two cookies look and taste much different.
Macarons are made from egg whites and have a hard shell on either side with a filling of buttercream, jam, or ganache in the middle. As seen in the photo above, they come in many different colors and have a smooth texture on their shells. In the USA, we often eat cookies called meringues, which are similar to the macaron shell, but have no filling.
Macaroons are also made from egg whites, but this cookie has finely ground nuts and coconut in its recipe. These cookies are flatter, rough in texture, and not colored.
Metallic Tower on Fourviere Hill in Lyon
After walking around the old town, most tourists make their way to the funicular train to go up to the top of Fourvière Hill. Exiting the train station, the first thing seen is the Metallic Tower.
The Metallic Tower sits atop Fourvière Hill in Lyon. It was originally an observation tower that was completed in 1894. Today, it's a television tower and not accessible to the public. And, yes it does look like the Eiffel Tower.
The tower is 282 feet high.
Notre Dame Basilica in Lyon
The Notre Dame Basilica dominates much of the top of Fourvière Hill. The building of the church was completed in the early 20th century. The inside of the church is filled with exquisite mosaics paying tribute to the Virgin Mary and describing her place in the history of France, like when Mary spoke to Joan of Arc or caused a miracle to help the Christians defeat the Turks at the battle of Lepanto in 1571.
The gold statue atop the church is of Mary.
When visiting the Basilica, be sure to check out the views of Lyon. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Mont Blanc in the Alps. The next two photos provide a glimpse of what is seen.
View of the Peninsula from Fourviere Hill in Lyon
Fourvière Hill provides excellent views of Lyon. In this photo, the Saône River is in the foreground, and the downtown area on the peninsula (Presqu'île) stretches towards the Rhône River. The large brick building on the left of the photo is a Radisson Hotel.
The next photo was also taken from the top of Fourvière Hill and shows the St. Jean Cathedral in old town.
St. Jean Cathedral in Vieux Lyon
This photo shows the size of the St-Jean Cathedral in the center of the old town of Lyon. It's possible to walk up or down the road connecting Vieux Lyon with the top of Fourvière Hill. Before heading back down to the city, visitors need to walk to the right (when facing the river) to see the huge old Roman theaters.
Fountain in Downtown Lyon
Walking around the peninsula and the old town of Lyon, it's easy to forget that this cosmopolitan area was a Roman settlement over 2000 years ago. Where Lyon stands today, Rome founded a major transportation and administrative hub in 43 BC and called the city Lugdunum. I like Lyon better.
Most of the excavation of ancient Lugdunum was done in the 20th century. Although archaeologists have uncovered homes, shops, and other structures, the most impressive are the ruins of two large Roman theaters that flow down the hillside near the Notre Dame Basilica.
The larger theater originally sat 10,000 must-have-been-skinny Romans, but only seats 3,000 today when it is used for outdoor concerts.
Those who love history should save time for the excellent Gallo-Roman Museum on the site of the theaters. This museum has many interesting exhibits, and the signage is in both English and French.
The ancient road dividing the two theaters leads back to the funicular station. Before we leave Lyon, let's take a quick look at the things to see on the peninsula.
Many of the major hotels are on the peninsula (called Presqu'île) between the two rivers of Lyon. In addition to hotels, this area is filled with shops, cafes, restaurants, and squares. The largest square is called Place Bellecour. It is one of Europe's largest and is in the heart of the city's retail center. Presqu'île also has many pedestrian streets, making it fun to walk both in the daytime and evening.
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