Classic Car Restoration - Part 3 - Some Specific Suggestions
The following are some specific suggestions that you may want to consider when restoring a classic 1955 Chevrolet, 1956 Chevrolet or 1957 Chevrolet.
If you have not located a decent classic yet, then start with the best car you can afford.
A rusty car will still be a rusty car unless all the rusted sheet metal is replaced.
If you can not weld or do paint and body work then by all means look for a solid car.
Sometimes you will be better off purchasing a classic that has be restored a few years ago and is in need of a fresh paint job.
The best place to look for rust is by checking the condition of the floor pans and braces.
Another place is between the rear bumper and trunk area.
Take a good look at that bargain classic, it could cost you 1000s of dollars in the long run.
Take lots of pictures and draw diagrams of even the simplest part of any disassembly.
Note hardware size, type and location.
Months down the road you will be glade you did.
Assembly and shop manuals are available on line for Tri-5's or you can purchase reproduction copies for each of the three years.
Take time to organize and catalog your parts when taking your classic Chevy apart.
Don't just throw nuts and bolts in a bucket for later use.
Use zip lock bags and tag each bag as you go and describe its contents.
Use small wire tags on larger parts.
Clean, sandblast and paint nuts and bolts before assembly.
Order your new parts early, before assembly.
Inspect each order to make sure you get what you paid for.
If you ordered something new then don't settle for a used part.
Make sure that the mounting hardware is correct and of the right quantity.
Don't throw away any part until you have a suitable working replacement.
Many of the parts found on a classic Chevy are stainless.
With a little practice you can take out the minor dents and scratches then polish.
Stainless can be buffed to look like new again with a round cloth buffing wheel mounted on your bench grinder and special polish.
Chrome on the other hand usually has to be re-platted or new reproduction pieces purchased.
Unless you are a paint and body pro leave this part of the job to experts.
Only problem here is that most paint and body shops only like to do quick fender benders.
Try to find a shop that only works on old cars.
Have them work on your car until its done and inspect the work daily.
Save money by taking your classic apart, have a paint and body man do the painting and you put it back together.
Good luck with your project even if it is only a dream at this point.
If you have not located a decent classic yet, then start with the best car you can afford.
A rusty car will still be a rusty car unless all the rusted sheet metal is replaced.
If you can not weld or do paint and body work then by all means look for a solid car.
Sometimes you will be better off purchasing a classic that has be restored a few years ago and is in need of a fresh paint job.
The best place to look for rust is by checking the condition of the floor pans and braces.
Another place is between the rear bumper and trunk area.
Take a good look at that bargain classic, it could cost you 1000s of dollars in the long run.
Take lots of pictures and draw diagrams of even the simplest part of any disassembly.
Note hardware size, type and location.
Months down the road you will be glade you did.
Assembly and shop manuals are available on line for Tri-5's or you can purchase reproduction copies for each of the three years.
Take time to organize and catalog your parts when taking your classic Chevy apart.
Don't just throw nuts and bolts in a bucket for later use.
Use zip lock bags and tag each bag as you go and describe its contents.
Use small wire tags on larger parts.
Clean, sandblast and paint nuts and bolts before assembly.
Order your new parts early, before assembly.
Inspect each order to make sure you get what you paid for.
If you ordered something new then don't settle for a used part.
Make sure that the mounting hardware is correct and of the right quantity.
Don't throw away any part until you have a suitable working replacement.
Many of the parts found on a classic Chevy are stainless.
With a little practice you can take out the minor dents and scratches then polish.
Stainless can be buffed to look like new again with a round cloth buffing wheel mounted on your bench grinder and special polish.
Chrome on the other hand usually has to be re-platted or new reproduction pieces purchased.
Unless you are a paint and body pro leave this part of the job to experts.
Only problem here is that most paint and body shops only like to do quick fender benders.
Try to find a shop that only works on old cars.
Have them work on your car until its done and inspect the work daily.
Save money by taking your classic apart, have a paint and body man do the painting and you put it back together.
Good luck with your project even if it is only a dream at this point.
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