Considerations

• Stain and polyurethane can be applied to previously stained wood. However, if the floor or furniture has a previous coating of polyurethane, it must be removed before applying new stain. Stain will not penetrate polyurethane, though stain pigments mixed into the first coat of new polyurethane will slightly change the color of the wood. If you desire to make a significant change to a much lighter color, then stripping or sanding is required.
  
  

Stripping and Sanding

• Stripping is a chemical process to remove all the old finish from wood. Stripping is appropriate for refinishing furniture, not hardwood floors. Remove old finish from hardwood floors with a power sander. To lighten hardwood floors, removing all the old stain requires sanding down to the original wood.
  
  Sanding furniture that has intricate carvings and other details will remove the characteristics that make the furniture interesting; stripping is a better alternative.
  
  If your goal is to lighten the color of stained wood on furniture, stripping is the first step. Dependent upon the wood species and the penetration of the old stain, bleaching and sealing may be required.
  
  Before applying the stripper, wipe down the wood surfaces with turpentine to remove all waxes and polishes. These will interfere with the penetration of the stripper.
  
  Use strippers in a well-ventilated area, and cover floors with newspapers and drop cloths. Read all directions and precautions on the stripper label. Some strippers are flammable; exercise caution. Protect your skin and eyes when applying and removing strippers. Work in small areas; do not apply the stripper to the entire wood surface. Stripper that dries on the wood increases the difficulty of removing the old finish and may discolor the wood. Follow label directions for the length of time to allow the stripper to penetrate, and then remove it as directed.
  
  

Bleaching

• Bleach wood surfaces if you do not like the color of the wood after stripping or if you wish to remove more of the remaining stain from the wood.
  
  Either apply manufactured wood bleach, or make your own by adding four ounces of laundry bleach to one gallon of water. Brush the bleach onto the wood surface, allow the bleach to work for two minutes, and then wash the surface with clean water. Allow the wood to dry for 24 hours. Remove any gray or whitish residue with very fine steel wool before applying new stain or finish.
  
  

Sealers and Fillers

• Sealers used on wood surfaces produce an even color when stain is applied. Sealers also prevent bleeding of the stain into an application of clear polyurethane finish. Some stains on the market today are self-sealing and do not require a separate sealer application. Check the label on the stain chosen, or consult the sales associate when buying stain.
  
  Fillers provide a smooth, even surface on open-grained woods such as oak, walnut and mahogany. The choice of whether or not to use filler is yours. Unfilled woods have slightly raised areas in the surfaces; filled woods are flat and smooth. Mix filler with stain, accomplishing both filling and staining in one application.
  
  

Stains

• To decide if you wish to stain the prepared wood surface, apply water or mineral spirits to a concealed small area and check the color. This test will show what the wood would look like with just a coat of clear polyurethane applied without staining.
  
  Stains are available in three types: pigmented oil-based wiping stains, penetrating oil stains and water-based stains.
  
  Pigmented oil-based stains are opaque and tend to conceal the grain pattern of the wood.
  
  Penetrating oil stains soak into the wood and allow more of the grain pattern to be seen.
  
  Water-based stains are the clearest and most transparent of all stains; however, these stains are intended for new wood that has never been stained, or a hardwood floor sanded to bare wood.