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Chapada Diamantina Travel - The Wonders of Igatu & Andaraí

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A Chapada Diamantina Treasure

A precious gem remaining from the days of the diamond cycle which gives Chapada Diamantina, in Bahia its name, Igatu stands out as one of the quaintest villages in all of Brazil and a top ecotourism destination in the Chapada.

The village, a district of Andaraí, is also writing a tale of rebirth, spun by a collective effort. Once it had over 4,000 inhabitants. Now it has about 400, who live in and around the small and usually quiet urban center.

A short walk from the center is a very pretty , with a pretty church. All around are trails, rock formations, rivers, waterfalls, and hills.

In the town center, with small white-washed or brightly colorful houses lining the stone-paved streets, one of the spots to sip on some icy beer or cachaça and have a chat is Bar Igatu, owned by Aguinaldo Silva (Seu Guina). Another interesting stop is  shop where Amarildo dos Santos sells his handwritten, hand-drawn books containing an Igatu census, updated every year.

Originally called Xique-Xique (for a type of cactus), Igatu, on the folds of the Sincora Mountain Range, is fully within the limits of the Chapada Diamantina National Park. Established in the 19th century by miners searching for diamonds on the banks of the Coisa Boa River. Igatu would later take on the name of the river ("Good Thing") in Tupi.

The abundance of rock and scarcity of clay in Igatu's hilly location led to the use of natural stone shelters as homes, called locas or tocas.

As more miners came into the area, they built with rocks, a reason for which the village is known as the Brazilian Macchu Picchu.

"Mining, here, grew at a feverish pace," said artist Marcos Zacariades, who owns Igatu's art gallery and museum, Galeria Arte & Memória . "It attracted sertanejos, families from the Recôncavo Baiano who won land titles, and the slaves who took care of the infrastructure. That brought about an economic boom."

The French Consulate in Lençóis created the bridge between Igatu and the foreign market. At the height of its prosperity, Igatu had properly built mansions decorated with fine European objects and smaller, pretty houses as well. There were shops selling imported goods; there was a cinema.

The first diamond cycle in the Chapada yielded diamonds of a quality comparable to that of the Great Mogul, says Marcos. When those were exhausted, the area got a second wind from carbonates, which were used in large projects such as the construction of the London subway.

When manufactured products took the place of carbonates, their price dropped dramatically and Igatu entered an age of abandonment.

Igatu Travel: The Urban Park

 Andaraí and Igatu take great pride in its urban preservation park (Parque Urbano de Preservação Ambiental,Histórica e Lazer de Igatu), created by a 2007 decree.

The park comprises  Bairro Luís dos Santos - the miners' district, containing their locas and ruins of stone houses - and Reserva Natural da Manga do Céu, an area rich in rock formations avidly sought after by boulder climbers.

The ruins reflect the situation in Igatu between the collapse of the mining cycle and the creation of the National Park.

While facing hunger, a lack of employment, and migration to other parts of Brazil, people sometimes destroyed the old rock shelters to prospect them. 

Whole houses were ripped apart, too. Antiques dealers from large cities like S. Paulo had a field day, buying tiles, doors, and more for almost nothing, says Zacariades.

Another striking work made of stone is the steep, winding road leading up to Igatu from the BA-142 highway. It was built in the 1930s and hawks back to an era when Igatu had Chrysler and Pontiac dealerships.

Igatu and Art

Born in Salvador, artist and curator Marcos Zacariades founded Galeria Arte & Memória, in Igatu, in 2002. Besides being a fine space for contemporary arts, the gallery is one of the ways by which the artist dedicates himself to the preservation and fostering of Igatu history and heritage.

At Arte & Memória,  an indoor gallery is used for temporary exhibitions. The open-air area, which includes remains of locas and a street, the artist permanently shows art, including his own, as well as objects which are significant to Igatu's history, such as carumbés (mining wash bowls) and other objects used by slaves and miners.

There is also a pleasant cafe where you can have coffee from the Chapada.

Zacariades has also played a key role in the revival and preservation of the village's history and heritage. Read more on the next page.

Dmitri

Chapada Diamantina inspires Dmitri, who lives in Igatu and has shown his work in  São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, and other Brazilian cities.

Dmitri's work - paintings, including large murals; urban interventions, and more - depict some of the most beautiful landscapes in the Chapada, while reflecting his concern about the preservation of nature.

dmitrideigatu.blogspot.com.br

Dmitri de Igatu on Facebook

Besouro

Besouro (2009, dir. João Daniel Tikhomiroff, besouroofilme.com.br), released internationally as The Assailant, tells the saga of a real-life capoeira fighter who took on mythical stature in the capoeira world and is still revered in the form of song in capoeira circles (listed as Unesco Intangible Heritage of Humanity in 2014).

Besouro ("Beetle"), who became a hero fighting for his people, is said to have been able to fly.

In the movie, the flying scenes were coordinated by Huen Chiu Ku, who used cables similar to the ones he employed in Kill Bill

A great part of the movie was shot in Igatu, especially market scenes such as the ones in which Besouro (Ailton Carmo) is made to confront his destiny by the orisha Exu (Sergio Laurentino). 

The production left Igatu with improvements such as the hiding of wires in its historical center.

Ecotourism and Adventure in Igatu

igatu is a bouldering paradise. In the fall, the village hosts a climbers' meet. The area has great climbing year round.

Rafael Moraes Di Credico and Vanessa Rebouças de Oliveira own Igatu Escalada Trekking, which offers trekking and climbing with various degrees of difficulty. One of the best places is the Labirinto (Labyrinth), right outside the town. The sector in the Igatu Municipal Park has several routes, from beginner to advanced levels of expertise

The area also has several trails. One of the easier ones is Rampa do Caim, from which you can see the Paty and  Paraguaçu Valleys. Another one was used before the construction of the stone road and can be taken downhill towards the highway. A trail crosses a plateau and connects Igatu and Mucugê.

The Laranjeiras River and waterfalls such as Favela, Rosinha, and Califórnia, the Pombos Creek and the Madalana swimming holes are other beautiful places you can reach from Igatu. 

It is essential to hire the services of a certified tour guide when you travel in Chapada Diamantina. 

Traditions and Celebrations in Igatu

Igatu and 

 

Terno das Almas

One of the most impressive rituals in Chapada Diamantina, Terno da Almas is a Lenten Lamentation in which people cover themselves with white sheets and walk through the ancient streets of Igatu and its surroundings, chanting, praying, and shaking a matraca, a type of rattle, by candlelight. 

A highlight of the tradition, which is carried on mainly by women, but also by men and children, is when they go into the Brejo-Verruga Mine.

 

Igatu's decline affected the tradition, which was reduced to one terno, led by Dona Isabel. In 1980, she had to leave Igatu. The ritual was forgotten for 23 years.

Marcos Zacariades led an effort to recover Terno das Almas. In 2003, Danúsia dos Santos, one of Igatu's residents, took up the role of guardiã da matraca, or the guardian of the rattle.

Meanwhile, the ritual in Andarai had persisted through the years. A project to list both ternos as Intangible Heritage of Chapada Diamantina was proposed by Marcos Zacariades and carried out by Centro Cultural Chic Chic, under the coordination of anthropologist Carolina Souza Pedreira, with sponsorship from BNB-BNDES.

The 2012 listing was celebrated with a ceremony at the church and at an exhibition at Galeria Arte & Memória - which was commemorating its 10th anniversary. The exhibition shared with all photographs and documents (such as the prayers characteristic of each terno) which serve as a reference of this cultural treasure for the community of Igatu today and always.

See photos of Terno das Almas on the City of Andarai Flickr.

St. John's Festival

Bahia takes pride in the number and quality of its near month-long Festas Juninas, a Brazilian tradition with its origin in Portugal which, in the Northeastern region, is best known as St. John's Festival (most often referred to simply asc).

Igatu also has its São João, when the village is all decorated with papercutting and bandeirinhas, or small paper flags, on strings. The chilly nights heat up to the sound of the accordion and percussion, forró dancing, and bonfires lit in the street.

Igatu Festival

 In 2013, the city of Andarai launched the Igatu Festival (Festival de Igatu), with the presence of Bahia governor Jaques Wagner. The spring event  - in 2014, the second edition took place at the end of August - features music shows with local as well as nationally known artists. Xangai, Mariene de Castro, and Guilherme Arantes are among the Brazil music greats who have performed.

Moreover, the festival is a showcase for the rich culture of Igatu and Andarai. The visitor might see a roda de capoeira or local folk groups playing the songs of terno  de reis (an Epiphany celebration). There have also been boulder climbing workshops.

Organizing a large event which brings thousands of people to the tiny village involves meticulous logistics, for example a long series of decisions which need to be made in order to organize the access via the narrow historical road, as well as parking in the village streets. The plans  have worked and the first editions of the festival have been a success in terms of organization and safety, not to mention the fun.

Boi Estrela de Igatu

Created on a St. Sebastian's Day (January 20), the boi-bumba is yet another success story in the revival and rewriting of the village traditions. The community works together to create the beautiful banners, masks, and costumes which are part of the festive parades taking to the streets at times such as the patron saint's day, Carnival, and other celebrations.

www.facebook.com/BoiEstrelaDeIgatu

Igatu is one of the most alluring attractions of Andaraí, a city with about 14,000 inhabitants which is located within the limits of Chapada Diamantina National Park.

Besides nature, the city has rich folk and historic traditions.

One of the most famous destinations in the Chapada, Poço Azul is part of Andaraí's extraordinarily beautiful surroundings. It is very important to hire the services of a certified guide before you explore them.

Considered one of Brazil's most scenic trekking circuits, the Paty Valley can be tackled in three to five days. Some of its treasures are waterfalls - Funil, Morro do Castelo and Cachoeirão are among the best.

A village with about 250 inhabitants can be reached via trails which were built by slaves to transport coffee. There are trails connecting Paty and other villages, Guiné and Capão.

Marimbus, Chapada Diamantina's expansive and beautiful wetlands, also belong to the territory of Andaraí.

The city is surrounded by other water paradises. There are several waterfalls: Ramalho, Fervedor, Bocório, Três Barras, Donana, Batatais, Rosinha, Três Barras, Cristais...

Near the city, you will also find lots of places where you can take a dip in natural pools. The best are the Paraguassu, Garapa, and Roncador Rivers.

As for its folk traditions, the city has marujada (aka chegança), a dramatization brought over from Portugal which portrays the conflicts between the Portuguese and the Moors; ternos de almas, like Igatu, and Cortejo das Baianas do Jarê, an expression of Candomble and Christian syncretism in celebration of Saint Sebastian.

Family-owned Kabana de Pedra and Pousada Sincorá are great places to start your discovery of Andaraí with English-speaking guides who have a deep knowledge of the area and a full appreciation and understanding of local heritage and culture.

Kabana de Pedra (www.kabanadepedra.com.br) serves some of the best food in town (including the delightful Arroz de Garimpeiro, or Miner's Rice).

Pousada Sincorá (pt-br.facebook.com/PousadaSincora) offers overnight accommodations, with a wonderful breakfast included.

Igatu is less than 8 miles from Andaraí, where you can arrange a guided visit. Confident, experienced Portuguese-speaking travelers can arrange a taxi ride from the Andaraí town center to the village.

Águia Branca has buses to Andaraí from Salvador. Although the distance between the two cities is about 400 kilometers, the bus trip takes nearly eight hours, due to stops.

Where to Stay in Igatu

Pousada Flor de Acucena - www.pousadaflordeacucena.com

Art Hotel Cristal - www.arthotelcristal.com.br

Abrigo Xique Xique - abrigoxiquexique.blogspot.com.br

 

Acknowledgements:

The author traveled to Igatu on a press trip with Bahiatursa. See more about the About.com Ethics Policy

With gratitude to Marcos Zacariades - for his friendliness, his detailed introduction to Igatu history, the delicious coffee at Arte & Memória, the ride to Andaraí after our mini bus broke down on the stone road (masterful driving!), and the permission to use his photos after my camera's memory card crashed. With loving thanks also to Carlos, Celia, and family of AndaraíAndaraí, Gabriela Astete and Mono Julian for the photos of the St. Sebastian Church, and to Andaraí mayor Wilson Paes Cardoso and his wife, Adaíse Eulália de Melo, who honored our group with a visit to Kabana de Pedra.

Recommended Reading for Chapada Diamantina travelers: 

A Visitor's Guide to the Chapada Diamantina Mountains. by Roy Funch. An essential and very enjoyable guide by one of the greatest advocates for the creation of the Chapada Diamantina National Park (and one of its former directors).

Guia Turistico da Chapada Diamantina, an excellent bilingual guide (Portuguese and English) published by Flora Comunicação in  Lençóis and updated every year.

Source...
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