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Ancient Japanese Dresses for Men

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    Kimono or Kosode

    • The kosode, literally meaning "small sleeves," originated during the Nara Period from A.D. 710 to 794. Starting in the 18th century, the same garment started going by the term "kimono." The kimono has an open, overlapping front kept closed with an "obi," or sash. Additionally, a kimono generally has a standard fabric width, rather than a fitted width. The sleeves of a man's kimono have a square cut, and the kimono falls straight down from the shoulder. A man's kimono also has more subdued colors than woman's would.

    Kamishimo: Kataginu and Hakama

    • The "kamishimo" refers to a type of formal dress worn by men of the samurai class during the Muromachi period, A.D. 1336 to 1573. The upper portion, called the "kataginu," had wide, flared shoulders and allowed for ease of movement. The lower portion, called the "hakama," has a split-leg pant design. Early designs had clearly defined legs while later designs had overlapping pleats that concealed where the two legs split apart.

    Dôbuku versus Dôfuku

    • The dobuku and dofuku have similarities but should not be confused with one another. Technically an over-garment, the dobuku has an an open front and a length that ranges between waist and thigh. Merchants and samurai wore this informal garment during the Momoyama period from A.D. 1573 to 1603. The dofuku, however, looks like a standard dressing gown with large sleeves and comes in knee-length and ankle-length sizes. The lower skirt section tapers out into a slight bell shape. This casual garment also originates from the Momoyama period, and was worn by lay monastics, artisans, poets and tea masters.

    Jikitotsu

    • The Jikitotsu, a type of day-wear that functioned like a coat, first appeared during the Heian period from A.D. 794 to 1185. Men who took Buddhist orders wore this garment. As such, the jikitotsu typically appeared in black or other somber colors. The sides remain open until the skirt section, which consists of one long layer of folded cloth. The original design had a horizontal cloth band that tied around the waist, separating the body panels from the skirt. By the Edo period, A.D. 1603 to 1868, the skirt attached to the body panels directly.

    Kariginu

    • Noblemen called "kuge" during the Heian period and the warrior class during the Kamakura period wore the informal kariginu, literally translated into "hunting robe," while hunting or performing other outdoor tasks. When worn, the back of the garment hangs straight down, but the front blouses out over the abdomen. As a result, the front hem of the garment goes down to the knee while the back hem reaches down to the ankle.

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