How to Fix Water Heater Pipes
- 1). Turn off the power or gas to the hot water heater. The water tank will be empty during the repair. If left on, an empty tank will cause the heating elements of an electric water heater to burn up. Likewise, allowing a gas water heater to run while the tank is empty will weaken the water tank.
- 2). Turn off the water supply to the water heater at the water source. Ideally, a water shut-off valve is directly in the incoming water supply line to the water heater. If none is present, shut the water off at the main water supply.
- 3). Turn on the hot water faucets in the house to help drain the lines of water. A garden hose connection at the bottom of the water heater tank will allow for draining the remaining water. Connect a standard garden hose to the fitting and route the hose outside to an acceptable area for draining the tank. Turn on the valve and allow the tank to drain entirely. Leave the faucets on to help the tank drain faster.
- 4). Cut out the leaking portion of copper pipe just above and below the hole. A hacksaw is suitable for cutting out the section of pipe if a tubing cutter is unavailable. A tubing cutter, however, will ensure a cleaner pipe cut and an easier repair. Simply place the tubing cutter on the section of pipe to be cut and clamp it down by turning the cutter's handle clockwise. Rotate the tubing cutter around the copper tubing while gradually increasing pressure on the pipe via the handle. The tubing will separate with only two or three passes.
- 5). Clean burrs and rough spots from the inside of the remaining copper tubing to prevent getting copper cuttings in the water system. Clean any rough areas present around the outside edge of the tubing. A half-round metal file is ideal for smoothing the ends before repair.
- 6). Scuff the outside ends of the copper tubing pipe in preparation for soldering a repair coupling in place. A scuff pad or piece of sandpaper will do the job. With the two ends clean, coat the two ends with flux for soldering.
- 7). Clean the inside of the repair coupling with the sand paper and apply a thin layer of flux. Slip the coupling onto the two ends of copper tubing and rotate it once to help distribute the flux.
- 8). Light the portable solder torch and adjust the control until a sharp, blue, flame is present. There should be very little yellow flame visible when it is properly adjusted. The tip of the inner-most blue flame is the hottest point. This is the section of the flame used for heating the copper coupling for soldering.
- 9). Rotate the torch tip around the coupling in even passes until a slight green flame is visible. A green flame indicates the copper is at a temperature suitable for soldering.
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Apply the solder-stick to the coupling ends by holding it at the tubing-coupling transition. Hold the torch in the center of the coupling while applying solder. The heated copper will pull the solder into the void as it melts. Continue applying the solder until the void is full. Use care not to apply too much solder; excess solder will create a restriction inside the water line. - 11
Allow the repaired connection to cool. Turn off the faucets previously opened to drain the water tank. Turn on the water supply line to the water heater and observe the new connection for any signs of leakage.
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