How to Install a Great Kitchen Countertop
Installing a new counter top in an existing kitchen is a great way to enhance the kitchens looks and add some value as well.
Most kitchen counters are twenty-four inches deep and always look crowded and cluttered.
Appliances such as toasters, mixers and blenders for example, can occupy so much space that there is little left for food preparation.
In my home kitchen, the counters were tired and scratched and in need of replacement.
Since the kitchen is quite large, I made a decision to make a drastic change.
My cabinets are installed in an ell shape and were not being replaced.
However, once the counter tops were removed, I could easily access the screws that held the cabinets to the wall studs.
By removing the mounting screws I could pull the entire unit of cabinets away from the wall another six inches in one piece.
The only cabinet work required was to install two new six inch fillers, one at each end of the cabinet run.
I could not find any ready made, stained filler materials to match, so I used plain white pine and stained it an offsetting color.
It looked really good as an accent.
I installed some new blocking to re-connect the cabinets to the wall studs and after checking their level condition, I re-fastened them all in place.
The counter top my wife wanted was to be a dark gray, six inch square, ceramic tile with a Pewter colored grout which would be quite heavy.
I installed a new ledger board flush with the cabinet tops along the back drywall wall.
This would provide me with something to fasten the counter top plywood too and provide support as well.
Using three quarter inch B-C grade plywood, I installed what was to be the the base of the new counter top.
As soon as the plywood was set in place, my wife realized just how much bigger the new counters were going to be.
I completed fastening the plywood to the counters and the wall ledger, cut the hole for the sink.
I measured for the number of tiles needed and the wife now decided that tile would look good on the back splash as well.
Sure, why not.
Off to the store for the tile, grout and tile adhesive.
I already own a tile cutter and and an eighth inch notched trowel but if you do not have them, get them at the same time.
Thoroughly vacuum the entire counter surface before you begin any work.
Any small pieces of dirt or sand left behind can easily crack a tile when it is pressed on.
Start by dry laying a good portion of the tile and especially at corners, ends, openings and so on.
you want to make sure that you are always using the largest piece of tiles possible.
Never ever end up with a sliver of tile at the ends or front edge of the counter.
With a thirty inch deep counter, five six tiles fit perfectly.
It is the ends of the counters and the sink openings that can cause a problem.
Break up your pattern into a diagonal in a problem area to keep the pieces as large as possible.
Dry laying lets you redo the tile layout as many times as necessary to get the desired look you want without any mess.
Once your layout is finalized, start the tile installation on the counter top first.
Spread only enough adhesive that you can work with before it starts to setup.
Install all your tiles making all the cuts as you go.
Do not try and go back later after the adhesive is dry and do cut pieces.
The adhesive gets very hard and fitting tile into these spaces can be near impossible.
When the adhesive is still soft is the right time to do the cuts.
Let your tile dry for a full day and keep all items off the counter.
Once the tile is dry, you can install your back splash tile.
Follow the same pattern as the counter and the counter will look even larger and it is more eye appealing.
Again, let the tile adhesive dry a day.
You want to grout all the tile at the same time.
You may need a helper to clean the grout haze from the tiles as you work.
Once the grout is mixed, place globs of grout on the tile and using a sponge float, push the grout into the tile joints on a forty-five degree angle to the grout lines.
By working the grout with the sponge you can attain a nice smooth, fully filled, grout joint.
Be careful not to scoop out wet grout by pulling in a straight line with the joints.
A little practice will make you an old hand.
The grout should dry at least two days before using the counters.
We have enjoyed the wider counters for so long they now appear normal.
This project is well worth the effort if your a kitchen person that enjoys cooking.
Pete Ackerson
Most kitchen counters are twenty-four inches deep and always look crowded and cluttered.
Appliances such as toasters, mixers and blenders for example, can occupy so much space that there is little left for food preparation.
In my home kitchen, the counters were tired and scratched and in need of replacement.
Since the kitchen is quite large, I made a decision to make a drastic change.
My cabinets are installed in an ell shape and were not being replaced.
However, once the counter tops were removed, I could easily access the screws that held the cabinets to the wall studs.
By removing the mounting screws I could pull the entire unit of cabinets away from the wall another six inches in one piece.
The only cabinet work required was to install two new six inch fillers, one at each end of the cabinet run.
I could not find any ready made, stained filler materials to match, so I used plain white pine and stained it an offsetting color.
It looked really good as an accent.
I installed some new blocking to re-connect the cabinets to the wall studs and after checking their level condition, I re-fastened them all in place.
The counter top my wife wanted was to be a dark gray, six inch square, ceramic tile with a Pewter colored grout which would be quite heavy.
I installed a new ledger board flush with the cabinet tops along the back drywall wall.
This would provide me with something to fasten the counter top plywood too and provide support as well.
Using three quarter inch B-C grade plywood, I installed what was to be the the base of the new counter top.
As soon as the plywood was set in place, my wife realized just how much bigger the new counters were going to be.
I completed fastening the plywood to the counters and the wall ledger, cut the hole for the sink.
I measured for the number of tiles needed and the wife now decided that tile would look good on the back splash as well.
Sure, why not.
Off to the store for the tile, grout and tile adhesive.
I already own a tile cutter and and an eighth inch notched trowel but if you do not have them, get them at the same time.
Thoroughly vacuum the entire counter surface before you begin any work.
Any small pieces of dirt or sand left behind can easily crack a tile when it is pressed on.
Start by dry laying a good portion of the tile and especially at corners, ends, openings and so on.
you want to make sure that you are always using the largest piece of tiles possible.
Never ever end up with a sliver of tile at the ends or front edge of the counter.
With a thirty inch deep counter, five six tiles fit perfectly.
It is the ends of the counters and the sink openings that can cause a problem.
Break up your pattern into a diagonal in a problem area to keep the pieces as large as possible.
Dry laying lets you redo the tile layout as many times as necessary to get the desired look you want without any mess.
Once your layout is finalized, start the tile installation on the counter top first.
Spread only enough adhesive that you can work with before it starts to setup.
Install all your tiles making all the cuts as you go.
Do not try and go back later after the adhesive is dry and do cut pieces.
The adhesive gets very hard and fitting tile into these spaces can be near impossible.
When the adhesive is still soft is the right time to do the cuts.
Let your tile dry for a full day and keep all items off the counter.
Once the tile is dry, you can install your back splash tile.
Follow the same pattern as the counter and the counter will look even larger and it is more eye appealing.
Again, let the tile adhesive dry a day.
You want to grout all the tile at the same time.
You may need a helper to clean the grout haze from the tiles as you work.
Once the grout is mixed, place globs of grout on the tile and using a sponge float, push the grout into the tile joints on a forty-five degree angle to the grout lines.
By working the grout with the sponge you can attain a nice smooth, fully filled, grout joint.
Be careful not to scoop out wet grout by pulling in a straight line with the joints.
A little practice will make you an old hand.
The grout should dry at least two days before using the counters.
We have enjoyed the wider counters for so long they now appear normal.
This project is well worth the effort if your a kitchen person that enjoys cooking.
Pete Ackerson
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