Your Boat"s Electrical System - Don"t Get Caught With Your Volts Down
Keeping your boat's electrical system in good repair can make the difference between a pleasant excursion and a deadly one. Knowing electrical connection, wiring and load capacity basics is a must know for any serious skipper.
Ever been on the water enjoying a nice cruise when suddenly you lose main propulsion? This has happened to me on a few different occasions and I find it to be quite a game-changer for the boat ride experience of not only myself but my passengers also.
So there I was cruising an old 1973 Caravelle that I had restored across the middle of a 5500 acre inland lake in west central Wisconsin. I was taking it slow as we had a strong headwind that was churning up 2-4 breakers. The Caravelle was a stern drive that sat very low in the water astern. My passenger was already apprehensive as he'd never been in such rough water on any lake. I reassured him that all would be well when very abruptly I lost engine power. First reaction was attempting a restart but to no avail. Instead of cranking the engine over until I lost all remaining battery, I had to get a hold of the situation and fast! In just a matter of seconds, my craft was turned broadside to wind and I was rolling in breaker troughs that we tall enough I couldn't see over them.
€Don't panic!€ I told myself as my mechanical mind ground gears into action. Being a heavy duty truck mechanic, I had a good idea where to start troubleshooting€"with what I heard last; the engine cutout.
The engine didn't sputter so it wasn't fuel related. My gauge confirmed that I still held roughly 15 gallons. Engine sound was good just before cutoff, wasn't misfiring so I ruled out ignition system.
Opening the engine cover, I checked the basics: Air intake, fuel lines, distributor cap and wires, oil level. All being ok, I began to troubleshoot electrical power supply to the starter, alternator and ignition.
In troubleshooting ANY electrical problem, you must always start with a known good voltage source. In this case, I started with the battery. Since I had no test light or multi-meter on board, I had to make some quick visual assumptions all while eyeing the water for large waves and other boats. Well, I saw lots of large waves but no other boats. All were much smarter than me and listened to the weather report and stayed off the lake. Well, safe in the knowledge that we wouldn't be struck by another vessel, I worried that if need be, I couldn't get a tow either.. What can I say? I was young..
Checked the batter cable connections at the battery for tightness and followed the battery ground to the engine block. This being ok I began tracing the positive cable to a junction block and checked the wires as best I could for breaks, corrosion and melting. Then traced from the junction block towards the engine. I found for the first time a rubber encapsulated multi-pin connector. AHA! I though as I pulled the plug apart and check the pins and sockets for looseness and corrosion. All good here too. Damn!
I know I was getting closer. By this time about an hour had elapsed and the water conditions were at least remaining constant. We hadn't taken on any water and the boat was rolling with the waves but I still had a great sense of urgency to resolve the problem.
Tracing from the engine side of the multi-pin plug, I followed the main power supply to the positive post of the starter where I found the terminal had come loose. Electrical power for the ignition system is pulled off this stud also so I had found the source. I tightened up the terminal and hit the key and we were back making way into the wind again. So I decided this was a good time to exhale and swallow that lump in my throat that I used to use to go to the bathroom.
After I settled down, I began thinking of all the problems a faulty electrical system can cause. I was lucky as the system was very small and didn't have long cable runs for the boat was only a sixteen footer. Now I run much larger boats with more complex systems and I've made it my mission to ensure basic wiring system maintenance is performed on a regular basis.
There are a lot of good resources available for you to learn the ins and outs of electrical systems found on board of most boats. From 12V direct current to 120-220v alternating current the basics are very similar.
Here's a simple checklist that I use during my boating season (season is only 4 months due to climate):
1. Check battery electrolyte levels and correct as per battery manufacturer instructions
2. Maintain charge levels when boat is unused for extended period of time by use of trickle charging (2-5 amp charge).
3. Inspect battery terminals for corrosion and clean if necessary.
4. Check terminal torque and ensure cables are secure.
5. Ensure battery hold-downs are installed properly and secure the battery from any movement. Marine environments are the most severe punishment a battery will ever endure.
6. Inspect general condition of all engine wiring. Look for wires contacting other engine components as wire insulation may be breached and a short circuit can occur. Secure wires away from unwanted contact by use of nylon zip ties. Avoid using electrical tape as the heat generated in the engine well will cause the tape to loosen.
7. If possible, follow cabin wiring harness from battery locations forward to instrument panel and correct any contact, insulation wear-through or unsecured wiring issues.
8. Keep a keen eye out for less-than-acceptable wiring connection devices. Such devices have NO PLACE in a marine environment:
a. Scotch lock wire splice connectors
b. Household wire nuts (yellow, red, orange or black cone shaped devices)
c. Electrical tape splices.
d. Non-covered or wrapped wire splices.
9. Visually inspect fuse/breaker panel connections as well as general fuse condition. Remember that in the marine environment, corrosion is one of our worst enemies and hides everywhere.
10. If making repairs, do NOT use a silicone type sealant on any connections. Electronic components and electrical connections will become corroded before you can say: €Did I really just do that?€
There's a good start. I also log my maintenance situations in my log book for my own history and I make notes on upcoming necessary repairs.
I came across a book that I suggest you look at to familiarize yourself with marine electrical systems. No one can ever know too much and the more confidence you have that comes from a greater knowledge, the better skipper you'll be!
Please visit http://www.kerrenterprise.com for information and products directly related to this article. Feel free to drop a comment or two of what you'd like me to write about.
-Thomas Nutting
Kerr Enterprise
http://www.kerrenterprise.com
Ever been on the water enjoying a nice cruise when suddenly you lose main propulsion? This has happened to me on a few different occasions and I find it to be quite a game-changer for the boat ride experience of not only myself but my passengers also.
So there I was cruising an old 1973 Caravelle that I had restored across the middle of a 5500 acre inland lake in west central Wisconsin. I was taking it slow as we had a strong headwind that was churning up 2-4 breakers. The Caravelle was a stern drive that sat very low in the water astern. My passenger was already apprehensive as he'd never been in such rough water on any lake. I reassured him that all would be well when very abruptly I lost engine power. First reaction was attempting a restart but to no avail. Instead of cranking the engine over until I lost all remaining battery, I had to get a hold of the situation and fast! In just a matter of seconds, my craft was turned broadside to wind and I was rolling in breaker troughs that we tall enough I couldn't see over them.
€Don't panic!€ I told myself as my mechanical mind ground gears into action. Being a heavy duty truck mechanic, I had a good idea where to start troubleshooting€"with what I heard last; the engine cutout.
The engine didn't sputter so it wasn't fuel related. My gauge confirmed that I still held roughly 15 gallons. Engine sound was good just before cutoff, wasn't misfiring so I ruled out ignition system.
Opening the engine cover, I checked the basics: Air intake, fuel lines, distributor cap and wires, oil level. All being ok, I began to troubleshoot electrical power supply to the starter, alternator and ignition.
In troubleshooting ANY electrical problem, you must always start with a known good voltage source. In this case, I started with the battery. Since I had no test light or multi-meter on board, I had to make some quick visual assumptions all while eyeing the water for large waves and other boats. Well, I saw lots of large waves but no other boats. All were much smarter than me and listened to the weather report and stayed off the lake. Well, safe in the knowledge that we wouldn't be struck by another vessel, I worried that if need be, I couldn't get a tow either.. What can I say? I was young..
Checked the batter cable connections at the battery for tightness and followed the battery ground to the engine block. This being ok I began tracing the positive cable to a junction block and checked the wires as best I could for breaks, corrosion and melting. Then traced from the junction block towards the engine. I found for the first time a rubber encapsulated multi-pin connector. AHA! I though as I pulled the plug apart and check the pins and sockets for looseness and corrosion. All good here too. Damn!
I know I was getting closer. By this time about an hour had elapsed and the water conditions were at least remaining constant. We hadn't taken on any water and the boat was rolling with the waves but I still had a great sense of urgency to resolve the problem.
Tracing from the engine side of the multi-pin plug, I followed the main power supply to the positive post of the starter where I found the terminal had come loose. Electrical power for the ignition system is pulled off this stud also so I had found the source. I tightened up the terminal and hit the key and we were back making way into the wind again. So I decided this was a good time to exhale and swallow that lump in my throat that I used to use to go to the bathroom.
After I settled down, I began thinking of all the problems a faulty electrical system can cause. I was lucky as the system was very small and didn't have long cable runs for the boat was only a sixteen footer. Now I run much larger boats with more complex systems and I've made it my mission to ensure basic wiring system maintenance is performed on a regular basis.
There are a lot of good resources available for you to learn the ins and outs of electrical systems found on board of most boats. From 12V direct current to 120-220v alternating current the basics are very similar.
Here's a simple checklist that I use during my boating season (season is only 4 months due to climate):
1. Check battery electrolyte levels and correct as per battery manufacturer instructions
2. Maintain charge levels when boat is unused for extended period of time by use of trickle charging (2-5 amp charge).
3. Inspect battery terminals for corrosion and clean if necessary.
4. Check terminal torque and ensure cables are secure.
5. Ensure battery hold-downs are installed properly and secure the battery from any movement. Marine environments are the most severe punishment a battery will ever endure.
6. Inspect general condition of all engine wiring. Look for wires contacting other engine components as wire insulation may be breached and a short circuit can occur. Secure wires away from unwanted contact by use of nylon zip ties. Avoid using electrical tape as the heat generated in the engine well will cause the tape to loosen.
7. If possible, follow cabin wiring harness from battery locations forward to instrument panel and correct any contact, insulation wear-through or unsecured wiring issues.
8. Keep a keen eye out for less-than-acceptable wiring connection devices. Such devices have NO PLACE in a marine environment:
a. Scotch lock wire splice connectors
b. Household wire nuts (yellow, red, orange or black cone shaped devices)
c. Electrical tape splices.
d. Non-covered or wrapped wire splices.
9. Visually inspect fuse/breaker panel connections as well as general fuse condition. Remember that in the marine environment, corrosion is one of our worst enemies and hides everywhere.
10. If making repairs, do NOT use a silicone type sealant on any connections. Electronic components and electrical connections will become corroded before you can say: €Did I really just do that?€
There's a good start. I also log my maintenance situations in my log book for my own history and I make notes on upcoming necessary repairs.
I came across a book that I suggest you look at to familiarize yourself with marine electrical systems. No one can ever know too much and the more confidence you have that comes from a greater knowledge, the better skipper you'll be!
Please visit http://www.kerrenterprise.com for information and products directly related to this article. Feel free to drop a comment or two of what you'd like me to write about.
-Thomas Nutting
Kerr Enterprise
http://www.kerrenterprise.com
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