Components Of Seabuckthorn Oil In The Ultraviolet Absorption
The sun's rays in the wavelength between 200nm and 400nm are called ultraviolet rays. The rays between 280nm-400nm cause acute skin damage, melanism, aging, and cancer. With growing thinning of the ozone layer, skin care is more and more important in Summer. In this experiment, the active ingredients, content and UV rays absorption of seabuckthorn oils are studied to find out suitable medium and long-wave UV rays absorbers.
1. The wavelength of UV rays to damage skin and skin resistance
Ultraviolet rays are divided into three wave ranges according to the penetration and damage ability on the skin:
1) 200nm-280nm is the short wave, which penetrate into the stratum corneum, most of them are rejected by the atmosphere, will not damage the skin;
2) 280nm-320nm is the medium wave, which shoot through the epidermis to cause skin red spots, even polymorphic light eruption;
3) 320nm-400nm is the long wave , which reach the dermis to cause no skin red spots, but will make skin blackening, wrinkling, aging and even cancer.
2. The UV rays absorption wavelength of Seabuckthorn oil components
The oils used in this study include seabuckthorn seed oil, seabuckthorn pomace oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, all of them contain vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin A source and flavonoids (see Table 1)
Table 1 The components of seabuckthorn oils to absorbe UV rays mg/100g
Oil Name Vitamin E Vitamin A Vitamin A source Flavonoids
Beta-carotene Carotenoids
Seabuckthorn Seed Oil 280-380 4.3 4845 30-250 688
Seabuckthorn Pomace Oil 436-688 40 187 916-2392 1400-2120
Seabuckthorn Pulp Oil 152-220 2.0 67.2 566-1541 365
2.1 The UV rays absorption wavelength of vitamin E,vitamin A and vitamin A source
Table 1 shows that the 3 seabuckthorn oils contain VE, VA and VA source, in terms of vitamin E content,pomace oil ranks first, seed oil the second, followed by pulp oil; in terms of vitamin A and vitamin A source , seed oil ranks the first, pomace oil the second, pulp oil the third; vitamin A of the 3 sea buckthorn oils is far less than the Vitamin A source. VE, VA, and VA sources are fat-soluble ingredients, which are absorbed by skin capillary hemangioma with seabuckthorn oil, the vitamin A source turns into vitamin A, monomolecular beta carotene is decomposed into dimolecular vitamin A, and monomolecular alpha, gamma-carotene and part of carotenoids, such as beta carotene zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, convert to monomolecular vitamin A. Therefore, there are different forms of vitamin A absorbed and converted through the skin, as shown in Table 2, they transform from each other, and maintain the dynamic balance, all the UV rays absorption wavelength of various forms of VA are listed in the Table 2. In addition, The UV rays absorption wavelength of vitamin E 284nm, absorption index 41.0-45.0 are also listed in Table 2.
Table 2 The UV rays absorption wavelength of vitamin E and different vitamin A
name ethanol
absorption peak absorption index
vitamin E 284 41.0-45.0
neovitamin Ac alcohol 311 907.8
ester 310.5 858.8
neovitamin Ab alcohol 319 1376
ester 320 972.7
isovitamin Aa alcohol 323 1477
ester 323 1199
isovitamin Ab alcohol 324 1379
ester 324 806.5
VA all-trans alcohol 325 1832
ester 325.5 1584
neovitamin Aa alcohol 328 1686
ester 328 1431
Vitamin E absorption peaks in the left of the medium wave band, which shows strong absorption in the medium wave, weak absorption occurs in the short wave with wide wave band; neovitamin Ac peaks in the right side of the absorption band, which shows strong absorption in the medium band,a weak absorption occurs in the long wavelength with a narrow wave band; neovitamin Ac peaks exactly in the right end of the medium band,the absorption is almost the same in the medium and long wavelength; isovitamin Aa, isovitamin Ab, vitamin A all-trans and neovitamin Aa peak near the left end of long wavelength ,which shows strong absorption in the long band, weak absorption occurs in the medium band with wide band. The absorption coefficients show that the strong absorption of vitamin E,vitamin A and vitamin A transformed of seabuckthorn oil happens in the long wavelength and weak absorption in the medium band.
Based on the content of vitamin E, vitamin A and vitamin A source of seabuckthorn oils, the absorption of sea buckthorn seed oil per unit in the medium band ranks first followed by pomace oil, pulp oil the third.
2.2 The UV rays absorption wavelength of flavonoids
Table 1 shows that, In terms of the content of f flavonoids, seabuckthorn pomace oil ranks first, followed by seed oil, pulp oil the third.
Table 3 The UV rays absorption wavelengths and drift values of flavonoids
No. Compound Name substituent group Dift Value
R1 R2 R3 nm nm
1 2,4-dihydroxy chalcone-4-glucoside H O-glucose H 320 300
2 myricetin OH OH OH 374 300
3 kaempferol OH OH H 371 299
4 isorhamnetin OH OH OMe 370 302
5 isorhamnetin-7-rhamnosyl glycosides OH O-rhamnose OMe 367 294
6 isorhamnetin-3-glucoside O-glucose OH OH 358 302
7 isorhamnetin-3-glucose-7-rhamnose glycoside O-glucose O-rhamnose OMe 359 303
8 isorhamnetin-3-rhamnose, galactose glycosides O-rhamnogalactoside OH OMe 359 302
9 isorhamnetin-3-glycosides rutin O-rue sugar OH OMe 359 303
10 isorhamnetin-3-glucopyranosyl-glucopyranoside O-glucopyranose OH OMe 359 295
11 isorhamnetin-3-arab glucoside O-arab glucose OH OMe 359 301
12 isorhamnetin-3-rhamnose glucoside O-rhamnose glucose OH OH 360 301
13 isorhamnetin-3-glucoside O-glucose OH OMe 372
14 isorhamnetin-3-rhamnosyl glycosides O-rhamnose OH OMe 372
15 isorhamnetin-3-vetch glycosides O-vicianose OH OMe 357
16 isorhamnetin-3-sophorose-7-rhamnose glycoside O-sophorose O-rhamnose OMe 357
17 four quercetin glycosides OH OMe 345
18 quercetin OH OH OH 357
19 quercetin-7-rhamnosyl glycosides OH O-rhamnose OH 357
20 quercetin-3-glucoside O-glucose OH OH 357
21 quercetin-3-rhamnosyl glycosides O-rhamnose OH OH 357
22 quercetin-3-vetch glycosides O-vicianose OH OH 357
23 quercetin-3-galactosidase glucoside O-galactose glucose OH OH 357
24 quercetin-3-ether OMe OH OH 357
25 naringenin OH OH H 357
26 naringenin OH O-glucose-rhamnose H 247
27 kaempferol-3-glucoside O-glucose OH H 360
28 rutin O-rue sugar OH OH 360
As table 3 shows, The UV rays absorption of 28 flavonoids peaks in the long wavelength, and the first 12 flavonoids drift to the medium band of ultraviolet rays; there is no evidence to prove if the other 16 flavonoids have the similiar situation. The data shows part of flavonoids absorbe medium wave UV raysoccasionally when absorbing long wave UV rays, or strong in the long wave rays absorption and weak in the medium wave rays absorption. Based on the content of flavonoids in seabuckthorn oils per unit mass, the long wave absoption of pomace oil is the strongest, seed oil the second, pulp oil the third.
2.3 The UV rays absorption wavelength of the other compounds
Seabuckthorn pomace oil and pulp oil contain capsanthin, anthocyanin, vitamin B5, coumarin and vitamin B12. Their UV rays absorption wavelengths are 285nm, 285nm, 291nm, 315nm, 361nm in order, the UV rays absorption wave of the first 4 compounds is in the medium wave while the 5th in the long wavelength. their function of sun protection is ignored as the content is next to nothing.
Above all the test datum, vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin A source and flavonoids and other active ingredients of sea buckthorn oils can absorbe UV rays in the long and medium wave, which eliminate or weaken skin acute and chronic UV damages. Therefore, sea buckthorn oils can be used in natural plant-based sunscreen products.
3 The sunscreen mechanism of UV rays absorption ingredients
3.1 The sunscreen mechanism of absorbing medium wave UV rays
The medium wave UV rays can easily cause acute injury of skin, commonly as polymorphic light eruption.
Seabuckthorn oil sunscreen ingredients absorb UV energy in the medium wave, and the mechanism: the oil can stop or slow down the infiltrating by lymph cells of shadow and deep skin layer caused by medium wave UV rays; eliminate or reduce the edema of dermal papilla layer to prevent flat collagen fiber from becoming three-dimensional grid type due to excessive edema fluid, namely swelling of the erythema type;skin blisters happen when collagen dermal papilla breaks away from epidermal basement membrane due to lower edema fluid . Above all, the UV-induced polymorphic light eruption or other light-induced skin diseases are avoided or alleviated.
3.2 The sunscreen mechanism of absorbing long wave UV rays
Long wave ultraviolet rays are unlikely to cause acute skin injuries. However, because 98% of them can penetrate through glass, clothing and human skin, to reach human dermis,which makes the cumulative damage or even cancer happens, the injuiry is often difficult to cure. Therefore, people need to prevent the damage from long-wave ultraviolet rays to the skin. UV-absorbing components in seabuckthorn oils consume long wave UV energy in bulk, the skin mechanisms are:
3.2.1 to eliminate or weaken the deterrent of collagen regeneration and the photocatalysis of collagen polymerization by long-wave ultraviolet rays, to eliminate or weaken the long-wavelength ultraviolet rays on the degradation of elastic elements, thus delaying the coarsening, wrinkling, aging of the skin and maintaining skin smoothness, swelling, soft and good feeling.
3.2.2 to eliminate and weaken the low-light catalyst on the formation of oxygen free radicals in skin by long-wave ultraviolet rays, which helps to avoid or weaken the conversion from reduced melanin (colorless state) to oxidized melanin (skin blackening) and the deposition.
3.2.3 to eliminate or weaken the oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids by free radicals on skin cells , to avoid the formation of lipofuscin, delaying the appearance of facial pigmentation to dilute the stain color.
4 Conclusion
The vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin A source, flavonoids and other active ingredients in sea buckthorn oils are easily absorbed by the skin, which not only consume the ultraviolet rays energy in bulk, eliminate or reduce the light-induced skin damages, but also have repair and healing ability on the light-induced skin injuries. They also eliminate a variety of harmful oxygen free radicals during the natural aging process of skin and photocatalytic aging process, which is helpful to delay and reduce the various aging symptoms.
1. The wavelength of UV rays to damage skin and skin resistance
Ultraviolet rays are divided into three wave ranges according to the penetration and damage ability on the skin:
1) 200nm-280nm is the short wave, which penetrate into the stratum corneum, most of them are rejected by the atmosphere, will not damage the skin;
2) 280nm-320nm is the medium wave, which shoot through the epidermis to cause skin red spots, even polymorphic light eruption;
3) 320nm-400nm is the long wave , which reach the dermis to cause no skin red spots, but will make skin blackening, wrinkling, aging and even cancer.
2. The UV rays absorption wavelength of Seabuckthorn oil components
The oils used in this study include seabuckthorn seed oil, seabuckthorn pomace oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, all of them contain vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin A source and flavonoids (see Table 1)
Table 1 The components of seabuckthorn oils to absorbe UV rays mg/100g
Oil Name Vitamin E Vitamin A Vitamin A source Flavonoids
Beta-carotene Carotenoids
Seabuckthorn Seed Oil 280-380 4.3 4845 30-250 688
Seabuckthorn Pomace Oil 436-688 40 187 916-2392 1400-2120
Seabuckthorn Pulp Oil 152-220 2.0 67.2 566-1541 365
2.1 The UV rays absorption wavelength of vitamin E,vitamin A and vitamin A source
Table 1 shows that the 3 seabuckthorn oils contain VE, VA and VA source, in terms of vitamin E content,pomace oil ranks first, seed oil the second, followed by pulp oil; in terms of vitamin A and vitamin A source , seed oil ranks the first, pomace oil the second, pulp oil the third; vitamin A of the 3 sea buckthorn oils is far less than the Vitamin A source. VE, VA, and VA sources are fat-soluble ingredients, which are absorbed by skin capillary hemangioma with seabuckthorn oil, the vitamin A source turns into vitamin A, monomolecular beta carotene is decomposed into dimolecular vitamin A, and monomolecular alpha, gamma-carotene and part of carotenoids, such as beta carotene zeaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, convert to monomolecular vitamin A. Therefore, there are different forms of vitamin A absorbed and converted through the skin, as shown in Table 2, they transform from each other, and maintain the dynamic balance, all the UV rays absorption wavelength of various forms of VA are listed in the Table 2. In addition, The UV rays absorption wavelength of vitamin E 284nm, absorption index 41.0-45.0 are also listed in Table 2.
Table 2 The UV rays absorption wavelength of vitamin E and different vitamin A
name ethanol
absorption peak absorption index
vitamin E 284 41.0-45.0
neovitamin Ac alcohol 311 907.8
ester 310.5 858.8
neovitamin Ab alcohol 319 1376
ester 320 972.7
isovitamin Aa alcohol 323 1477
ester 323 1199
isovitamin Ab alcohol 324 1379
ester 324 806.5
VA all-trans alcohol 325 1832
ester 325.5 1584
neovitamin Aa alcohol 328 1686
ester 328 1431
Vitamin E absorption peaks in the left of the medium wave band, which shows strong absorption in the medium wave, weak absorption occurs in the short wave with wide wave band; neovitamin Ac peaks in the right side of the absorption band, which shows strong absorption in the medium band,a weak absorption occurs in the long wavelength with a narrow wave band; neovitamin Ac peaks exactly in the right end of the medium band,the absorption is almost the same in the medium and long wavelength; isovitamin Aa, isovitamin Ab, vitamin A all-trans and neovitamin Aa peak near the left end of long wavelength ,which shows strong absorption in the long band, weak absorption occurs in the medium band with wide band. The absorption coefficients show that the strong absorption of vitamin E,vitamin A and vitamin A transformed of seabuckthorn oil happens in the long wavelength and weak absorption in the medium band.
Based on the content of vitamin E, vitamin A and vitamin A source of seabuckthorn oils, the absorption of sea buckthorn seed oil per unit in the medium band ranks first followed by pomace oil, pulp oil the third.
2.2 The UV rays absorption wavelength of flavonoids
Table 1 shows that, In terms of the content of f flavonoids, seabuckthorn pomace oil ranks first, followed by seed oil, pulp oil the third.
Table 3 The UV rays absorption wavelengths and drift values of flavonoids
No. Compound Name substituent group Dift Value
R1 R2 R3 nm nm
1 2,4-dihydroxy chalcone-4-glucoside H O-glucose H 320 300
2 myricetin OH OH OH 374 300
3 kaempferol OH OH H 371 299
4 isorhamnetin OH OH OMe 370 302
5 isorhamnetin-7-rhamnosyl glycosides OH O-rhamnose OMe 367 294
6 isorhamnetin-3-glucoside O-glucose OH OH 358 302
7 isorhamnetin-3-glucose-7-rhamnose glycoside O-glucose O-rhamnose OMe 359 303
8 isorhamnetin-3-rhamnose, galactose glycosides O-rhamnogalactoside OH OMe 359 302
9 isorhamnetin-3-glycosides rutin O-rue sugar OH OMe 359 303
10 isorhamnetin-3-glucopyranosyl-glucopyranoside O-glucopyranose OH OMe 359 295
11 isorhamnetin-3-arab glucoside O-arab glucose OH OMe 359 301
12 isorhamnetin-3-rhamnose glucoside O-rhamnose glucose OH OH 360 301
13 isorhamnetin-3-glucoside O-glucose OH OMe 372
14 isorhamnetin-3-rhamnosyl glycosides O-rhamnose OH OMe 372
15 isorhamnetin-3-vetch glycosides O-vicianose OH OMe 357
16 isorhamnetin-3-sophorose-7-rhamnose glycoside O-sophorose O-rhamnose OMe 357
17 four quercetin glycosides OH OMe 345
18 quercetin OH OH OH 357
19 quercetin-7-rhamnosyl glycosides OH O-rhamnose OH 357
20 quercetin-3-glucoside O-glucose OH OH 357
21 quercetin-3-rhamnosyl glycosides O-rhamnose OH OH 357
22 quercetin-3-vetch glycosides O-vicianose OH OH 357
23 quercetin-3-galactosidase glucoside O-galactose glucose OH OH 357
24 quercetin-3-ether OMe OH OH 357
25 naringenin OH OH H 357
26 naringenin OH O-glucose-rhamnose H 247
27 kaempferol-3-glucoside O-glucose OH H 360
28 rutin O-rue sugar OH OH 360
As table 3 shows, The UV rays absorption of 28 flavonoids peaks in the long wavelength, and the first 12 flavonoids drift to the medium band of ultraviolet rays; there is no evidence to prove if the other 16 flavonoids have the similiar situation. The data shows part of flavonoids absorbe medium wave UV raysoccasionally when absorbing long wave UV rays, or strong in the long wave rays absorption and weak in the medium wave rays absorption. Based on the content of flavonoids in seabuckthorn oils per unit mass, the long wave absoption of pomace oil is the strongest, seed oil the second, pulp oil the third.
2.3 The UV rays absorption wavelength of the other compounds
Seabuckthorn pomace oil and pulp oil contain capsanthin, anthocyanin, vitamin B5, coumarin and vitamin B12. Their UV rays absorption wavelengths are 285nm, 285nm, 291nm, 315nm, 361nm in order, the UV rays absorption wave of the first 4 compounds is in the medium wave while the 5th in the long wavelength. their function of sun protection is ignored as the content is next to nothing.
Above all the test datum, vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin A source and flavonoids and other active ingredients of sea buckthorn oils can absorbe UV rays in the long and medium wave, which eliminate or weaken skin acute and chronic UV damages. Therefore, sea buckthorn oils can be used in natural plant-based sunscreen products.
3 The sunscreen mechanism of UV rays absorption ingredients
3.1 The sunscreen mechanism of absorbing medium wave UV rays
The medium wave UV rays can easily cause acute injury of skin, commonly as polymorphic light eruption.
Seabuckthorn oil sunscreen ingredients absorb UV energy in the medium wave, and the mechanism: the oil can stop or slow down the infiltrating by lymph cells of shadow and deep skin layer caused by medium wave UV rays; eliminate or reduce the edema of dermal papilla layer to prevent flat collagen fiber from becoming three-dimensional grid type due to excessive edema fluid, namely swelling of the erythema type;skin blisters happen when collagen dermal papilla breaks away from epidermal basement membrane due to lower edema fluid . Above all, the UV-induced polymorphic light eruption or other light-induced skin diseases are avoided or alleviated.
3.2 The sunscreen mechanism of absorbing long wave UV rays
Long wave ultraviolet rays are unlikely to cause acute skin injuries. However, because 98% of them can penetrate through glass, clothing and human skin, to reach human dermis,which makes the cumulative damage or even cancer happens, the injuiry is often difficult to cure. Therefore, people need to prevent the damage from long-wave ultraviolet rays to the skin. UV-absorbing components in seabuckthorn oils consume long wave UV energy in bulk, the skin mechanisms are:
3.2.1 to eliminate or weaken the deterrent of collagen regeneration and the photocatalysis of collagen polymerization by long-wave ultraviolet rays, to eliminate or weaken the long-wavelength ultraviolet rays on the degradation of elastic elements, thus delaying the coarsening, wrinkling, aging of the skin and maintaining skin smoothness, swelling, soft and good feeling.
3.2.2 to eliminate and weaken the low-light catalyst on the formation of oxygen free radicals in skin by long-wave ultraviolet rays, which helps to avoid or weaken the conversion from reduced melanin (colorless state) to oxidized melanin (skin blackening) and the deposition.
3.2.3 to eliminate or weaken the oxidation of unsaturated fatty acids by free radicals on skin cells , to avoid the formation of lipofuscin, delaying the appearance of facial pigmentation to dilute the stain color.
4 Conclusion
The vitamin E, vitamin A, vitamin A source, flavonoids and other active ingredients in sea buckthorn oils are easily absorbed by the skin, which not only consume the ultraviolet rays energy in bulk, eliminate or reduce the light-induced skin damages, but also have repair and healing ability on the light-induced skin injuries. They also eliminate a variety of harmful oxygen free radicals during the natural aging process of skin and photocatalytic aging process, which is helpful to delay and reduce the various aging symptoms.
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