Preparation

• 1). Clean the entire tub and surrounding surfaces with a strong detergent or TSP (trisodium phosphate) solution. It is critical that all oils and other contaminants be removed prior to sanding. Sanding will not remove oils; in fact, it will rub them deep into the sanded surface making them harder to remove.
  
  
• 2). Repair any chips or cracks prior to sanding. If possible, remove fixtures (like the tub drain) to avoid creating a paint edge at the fixture. This will reduce the chipping in the future. Mask the tub-surround and fixtures with quality masking tape at least 3/4 inch wide.
  
  
• 3). Sand the entire tub surface with 80- to 120-grit sand paper. Sand the surface until all foreign material is gone, and the surface is smooth, but not polished. The sanding process provides a surface for the coating that is uniform, yet is rough enough for the coating to adhere.
  
  

Application

• 1). Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for mixing procedure and specific safety equipment (gloves, eye protection, respirator). Most kits are two part epoxies, or similar coatings, that cure as a result of a chemical reaction between the resin and hardener.
  
  
• 2). Ventilate the bathroom well. Bathrooms are confined work spaces that can accumulate chemical vapors released by the coatings.
  
  
• 3). Pour the mixed coating into the roller pan. Apply a thin coat with the roller using light pressure. Replace the roller head and apply a second coat; see manufacturer's instructions for time between coats. Cover the pan and brush with plastic wrap between coats.
  
  
• 4). Use the brush to apply the coating to corners and other curved surfaces where the roller will not go. Overlap the flat surfaces that the roller will cover.
  
  
• 5). Remove the masking tape after both coats have fully dried. The masking tape must be removed before significant curing to produce a clean edge.